The Upapandavas

 

Who exactly were they? All five sons of Draupadi are collectively referred to as the Upapandavas, born either during or after the Pandavas' thirteen-year period of exile. In this context, all the sons of the Pandavas are collectively addressed as the Upapandavas or Pandavaputras.

Except for the honourable exceptions of Abhimanyu, Ghatotkacha, Babhruvahana, and Iravan, not much is found written about these Upapandavas or Pandavaputras in Mahabharata, or in the vast body of literature written on the Mahabharata afterward—and if it does exist, it has at least not come across in my reading (considering my diligent study is not that vast, the above statement might perhaps be a bold statement).

Despite the above, the deaths of some of these Upapandavas appear to be highly dramatic and strayed from the principles of a righteous war (Dharmayuddha). Considering the gravity, volatility, drama, and far-reaching consequences of these episodes, very few events in the Mahabharata come close to them. For example, the house of lac (Lakshagriha), the game of dice and the disrobing of Draupadi, and the deaths of Bhishma-Drona and Duryodhana-Karna. If we alter the criteria slightly, the exhibition of weapons by Drona’s disciples, Karna’s challenge to Arjuna, and his lifelong friendship with Duryodhana could also be included. Therefore, one cannot resist the temptation to write about them.

Draupadi bore five sons to the five Pandavas. Their names and the meanings behind those names are as follows:

• Yudhishthira’s son – Prativindhya: One who, like the Vindhya mountains, can stand unyielding against enemy attacks.
• Bhima’s son – Sutasoma: Born after Bhima performed a thousand Somayagas (sacred rituals related to moon).
• Arjuna’s son – Shrutakarma or Shrutakirti: Named in memory of the many noble deeds Arjuna performed while traveling alone during his exile.
• Nakula’s son – Shatanika: Named after a great royal sage (Rajarshi) of the Kuru dynasty.
• Sahadeva’s son – Shrutasena: Named after Kartikeya, the generalissimo of the Gods, because he was born under the Krittika constellation.

The Pandavas had contracted other marriages as well.

Yudhishthira and Devika (the princess of King Govasena of the Shibi kingdom) had a son named Youdheya. He did not participate in the war. Following the death of Govasena in the Mahabharata war, Youdheya became the king of the Shibi kingdom.

Bhima and Valandhara (the princess of the Kashi kingdom) had a son named Sarvaga. He did not participate in the war. The reason being, during the Ashvamedha Yajna performed by the Pandavas after the great Mahabharata war, Bhima defeated King Subahu of Kashi. Impressed by his valour, Valandhara chose Bhima in her Svayamvara and married him. It is mentioned that Sarvaga later became the King of Kashi.

Bhima and Hidimba had a son named Ghatotkacha. He had a vital role in the war. His death was brought about by Karna using the Vasavi Shakti weapon.

Arjuna and Ulupi had a son named Iravan. Ulupi was the daughter of the Naga King Kauravya. Kauravya was born into the lineage of Airavata (the most powerful king of the Nagas).

Arjuna and Chitrangada had a son named Babhruvahana. Chitrangada was the daughter of King Chitravahana of the Manipura kingdom. Her father, Chitravahana, adopted Babhruvahana as the heir to the kingdom of Manipura. Babhruvahana grew up to become the king of Manipura.

Arjuna’s fourth wife was Subhadra, the sister of Shri Krishna. In accordance with Shri Krishna's wishes, Arjuna abducted Subhadra (Subhadraharana). Their son was Abhimanyu. Abhimanyu's sacrifice was a slaughter carried out by tossing all rules of righteous war to the wind.

Nakula and Karenumati (the daughter of Shishupala) had a son named Niramitra. He did not participate in the war. Niramitra must have been very young at the time of the war. Later, when he grew up, he became the King of the Madra kingdom. Since Nakula was the son of Madri, that inheritance passed down to him. In the Mahabharata, Nakula's son Niramitra is often confused with the prince of Trigarta, also named Niramitra, who was killed by Sahadeva in battle.

Sahadeva and Vijaya had a son named Suhotra. He, too, did not participate in the war. Vijaya was the daughter of King Dyutimat of the Salva region in the Madra province. There was also a king named Suhotra in the Puru (Lunar) dynasty, who is mentioned in the Mahabharata. Aside from sharing the same name, there is no connection between the two.

Ghatotkacha

Let us begin with Ghatotkacha, the eldest among the Upapandavas. On the 14th day of the war, Arjuna killed Jayadratha to avenge the killing of Abhimanyu. Because Ghatotkacha was a demon (Rakshasa), the rules of righteous warfare did not apply to him, and the battle raged on even after sunset.

Displaying incomparable valour with his illusionary warfare (Mayavi Yuddha), he perilously decimated the Kaurava army. Seasoned warriors like Dronacharya, Karna, Kripacharya, and Duryodhana himself could not hold their ground against him. When this was their plight, what can be said of the others?

Admittedly, Ashwatthama stood firm against Ghatotkacha's might. He tried desperately to contain Ghatotkacha, but met with no success. The Kauravas found themselves with nowhere to run as Ghatotkacha continued his relentless slaughter of the enemy forces. To aid Duryodhana, Bhagadatta advanced upon Ghatotkacha with his elephant army, but even that elephant division could not withstand him. The demon prince Ayudhan, a mighty warrior fighting on Duryodhana's side from a chariot drawn by gigantic donkeys, was also sent to the abode of Death by Ghatotkacha.

Upon realising that Iravan had been killed in his battle against Alambusha, Ghatotkacha pounced on Alambusha with the speed of wind. An unprecedented battle began between the two. Since both were experts in illusionary warfare, they rained down various weapons upon each other's armies assuming various forms, illusions. Due to this mystical warfare, the Kaurava army—completely bewildered as to how to face the arrows and showers of stones falling from the sky with no visible adversary fled the battlefield in despair. The plight of the Pandava army was somewhat similar. Their commanders were appealing to them to stand and fight. Bhima, the other Pandavas, Satyaki, and other warriors led the Pandava army forward, taking advantage of the opportunity to cut through the Kaurava ranks.

Amidst the roaring chaos of this conflict, the chariots of Alambusha and Ghatotkacha flew high into the air, collided, and a duel ensued. Ultimately, Ghatotkacha dragged Alambusha out of his chariot and hurled him from the sky to the ground. Alambusha's body was literally torn to pieces, and that mighty demon king fell dead on the battlefield.

Terrified by blood-curdling screams, sweat-inducing monstrous forms, and the onslaught of weapons from invisible warriors, the Kaurava army scattered in all directions. Now, Duryodhana had no choice left but to approach Karna.

Approaching Karna, he literally begged him to destroy Ghatotkacha by any means necessary. Karna knew exactly what Duryodhana was hinting at. He refused to use the Vasavi Shakti weapon on Ghatotkacha. In his heart, Karna was certain that he could not defeat Arjuna without the Vasavi Shakti. It was a weapon he had obtained from Indra in exchange for his immortality-granting armour and earrings (Kavach-Kundala), and he had preserved it specifically for the decisive battle against Arjuna. He explained this to Duryodhana.

To this, the King replied, "My friend, we will face the situation of fighting Arjuna only if we see tomorrow's morning. Given the speed at which Ghatotkacha is destroying the Kauravas, I do not think any of us will be left alive tomorrow to fight Arjuna. Therefore, the only option before you right now is to kill Ghatotkacha, this very moment and save the Kauravas. Whether you do it with the Vasavi Shakti or by some other means is your choice."

Before this command from Duryodhana, the bounden Karna could do nothing, and he unleashed the Vasavi Shakti upon Ghatotkacha. The Vasavi Shakti did its job flawlessly, and that great warrior fell dead on the battlefield. Having completed its task, the Vasavi Shakti returned to Indra. Consequently, Arjuna’s life was spared. Even though they won that night's battle, Karna’s state became that of a defeated man. The outcome of his eventual battle with Arjuna had practically been decided.

A number of questions arise following Ghatotkacha's sacrifice for his uncles, which cost Karna his ultimate weapon and paved the way for the Pandavas' victory. Was he sacrificed on the battlefield because he belonged to the Anarya (non-Aryan) clans? Or because, being the eldest, he might claim a right to the kingdom in the future? Or was he deemed fit for sacrifice simply because he was a demon? Why does the grief over Ghatotkacha's death not feel as poignant as the grief over Draupadi's sons?

Abhimanyu

Next in line to Ghatotkacha was Abhimanyu. Rare is the person who does not know of his heroic death and his story.

On the 13th day of the great war, Drona formed the wheel formation (Chakravyuha) to fulfil his promise to Duryodhana of capturing Yudhishthira alive. Drona’s plan to capture Yudhishthira alive had absolutely no chance of succeeding as long as Arjuna was by Yudhishthira's side. Despite relentless efforts since taking over the command of the army, Dronacharya had not been able to capture Dharma (Yudhishthira). The Samsaptakas took care to draw Arjuna away from the main battlefield once again. (The Samsaptakas refers to King Susharma of Trigarta, his brothers, and their army. Trigarta and Arjuna shared an ancient enmity dating back to the Rajasuya Yajna, and they had taken a solemn oath together). Their oath dictated that either Arjuna would die at their hands, or they would die fighting, but they would never turn their backs. Taking this oath, these fierce soldiers had performed their own funeral rites while still alive. In short, none of them were going to return alive (much like a suicide squad of modern-day extremists).

Only three warriors possessed the knowledge and power to break into the Chakravyuha and successfully exit it: Shri Krishna himself, Arjuna, and Krishna's son Pradyumna (who was not fighting on either side in the Mahabharata war and, like Balarama, had gone on a pilgrimage). Pradyumna was Abhimanyu's Guru in the science of weapons. Abhimanyu knew how to enter the Chakravyuha, but lacked the knowledge of how to come out of it.

Inside the Chakravyuha arranged by Dronacharya, the Kauravas’ warriors and their army began a massacre of the Pandavas’ forces. In the absence of Arjuna and Shri Krishna, the responsibility of confronting Drona fell upon the other Pandavas, Satyaki, Panchala prince Dhrishtadyumna, Shikhandi, and others. Despite their tireless efforts, the formation could not be breached, while the Pandavas suffered heavy losses instead. Yudhishthira was aware of Drona's promise to Duryodhana, and he harboured a justified fear that if the war continued this way in Arjuna's absence, Drona would reach him by sunset. Left with no choice, Yudhishthira had to ask Abhimanyu to breach the Chakravyuha. When asked, Abhimanyu clearly stated his limitation. He said, "I will certainly breach the Chakravyuha and enter it, but I do not know how to exit. If that happens, I will be left isolated facing all the Kauravas’ warriors."

To this, Yudhishthira, Bhima, Nakula, Sahadeva, the Panchala brothers, and Satyaki all assured him, "Once you breach the formation, we will enter right behind you. It is our responsibility to ensure you are not left alone." In any case, in Arjuna's absence, it was expected that Abhimanyu’s powerful uncles would protect him.

Abhimanyu breached the Chakravyuha and entered. Just as Yudhishthira, Bhima, and the other Pandavas’ warriors tried to enter through the same opening, Jayadratha, the king of the Sindhu kingdom, blocked their way. Even after a ferocious battle, the Pandavas’ warriors failed to break through. Jayadratha achieved this success due to a boon he had received from Lord Shiva. To put it briefly, when the Pandavas were in exile, Jayadratha found Draupadi alone, abducted her onto his chariot, and fled. The Pandavas, primarily Bhima and Arjuna, pursued him, decimated his army, and humiliated him completely. They forced him to apologise and rub his nose in the dust before Draupadi. To avenge this insult, Jayadratha performed severe penance to Lord Shiva and expressed his desire to kill Arjuna. Lord Shiva, pleased with him, said, "This is not possible; I myself could not defeat Arjuna. But in return, you will be able to hold back the other Pandavas for a single day." The ultimate consequence of this boon was that Abhimanyu was left entirely isolated inside the Chakravyuha.

That day, Abhimanyu displayed unprecedented valour. Kauravas’ warriors surrounded Abhimanyu and unleashed a volley of arrows at him. However, not a single arrow could reach Abhimanyu; his arrows intercepted theirs mid-air. That young hero was justly dealing with everyone according to their measure. The list of legendary Kauravas’ warriors who were forced to retreat before him was very long: Duryodhana himself, Karna, Dushasana, Shakuni, Shalya, Bhurishrava, Kratha, Somadatta, Ashvaketu, the prince of Magadha, Kripa, Drona, his son Ashwatthama, Kritavarma, and so on. The Kauravas’ warriors slain by Abhimanyu were also numerous; to name a few: Shatrunjaya, Chandraketu, Mahameghna, Suvarchas, Suryabhas, King Brihadbala of the Kosala kingdom, and Duryodhana's son Lakshmana.

Not a single arrow could pierce Abhimanyu’s golden armour. Conversely, Abhimanyu's arrows found the exact gaps, pierced the enemies' armour, and destroyed them. Drona could not help but praise Abhimanyu: "He truly looks like Arjuna's son, a master archer (Savyasachi) just like him. It does not surprise me that his armour cannot be pierced. I myself taught his father how to wear armour, and he taught it to Abhimanyu. One must take care that the joints of the armour remain invisible to the enemy." Hearing this, Karna, Duryodhana, and others flew into a rage. They questioned Drona, "Acharya, enough of praising the enemy, tell us the way to defeat him. Not a single car-warrior or Maharathi among us can stand before him. The only two options left are either death at Abhimanyu's hands or turning our backs to retreat from the battlefield."

Drona showed the way: "Even if your arrows do not reach his body, his weapons can be struck down. Gather together and disarm Abhimanyu."

Drona, Karna, Duryodhana, Brihadbala, Kripa, Ashwatthama, and Kritavarma surrounded Abhimanyu. Karna, the son of Surya, broke his bow. Drona killed his chariot horses, and Kripa killed his charioteer, Sumitra. Deprived of his chariot, Abhimanyu began fighting with a sword. Drona, shooting arrows from his chariot, shattered the sword. Karna smashed his shield to pieces. Surrounded by so many, some naturally shot arrows at Abhimanyu from behind. The Kauravas’ warriors were mounted on chariots while Abhimanyu was on foot; the Kaurava warriors were armed while Abhimanyu was practically unarmed.

Lifting a chariot wheel, he rushed at the Kauravas. He looked like Lord Krishna himself wielding the Sudarshana Chakra. Wounded by numerous arrows and weapon strikes, Abhimanyu looked like a blooming tree of flame of forest (Palash tree) in searing summer. The chariot wheel in his hands was also shattered to pieces. Grabbing a massive mace, Abhimanyu rushed at Ashwatthama’s chariot. He killed the horses of the chariot, sent two warriors assisting Ashwatthama to the abode of Death, and dispatched Shakuni's son Kalakeya along the same path. Dushasana's son (Drumasena?) charged at him with a mace. At one moment, both warriors collapsed to the ground from each other's blows. Dushasana's son stood up first, and while Abhimanyu was still trying to rise, struck a heavy blow with his mace on Abhimanyu’s head. Abhimanyu collapsed, dead on the battlefield. The Kauravas raised a single shout of victory. It felt as though the sun set out of grief for Abhimanyu. The war halted for the night on the 13th day.

After destroying the Samsaptakas, Arjuna returned to the grief-stricken Pandavas’ camp and learned of the sacrifice made by the 16-year-old Abhimanyu to protect Yudhishthira. It was a slaughter of an unarmed Abhimanyu carried out collectively by numerous Kauravas’ warriors, including Drona, Kripa, and Karna. The events that followed fall outside the scope of this article.

Iravan

After this came the birth of Iravan, the son Arjuna fathered with the Naga princess Ulupi. When Yudhishthira and Draupadi were in private, Arjuna accidentally entered their chambers, and consequently accepted a period of exile for self-purification. Wandering the lands, Arjuna reached the banks of the Ganges. One day, while he was bathing in the river, Ulupi took him away to the Naga realm (Nagaloka). Ulupi requested Arjuna to accept her. Upon learning about her lineage, Arjuna consented to her request. Iravan grew up in the Naga realm and fought on the side of the Pandavas in the war. He killed Shakuni's Gandhara brothers and caused immense damage to the Kauravas’ army through fierce fighting. He was eventually killed by the demon king Alambusha, who was fighting on the side of the Kauravas. The battle between Alambusha and Iravan was a unique conflict featuring the use of illusionary powers versus Naga battlefield skills. Alambusha tried several times to defeat Iravan by assuming mystical forms, but Iravan thwarted all those attempts and attacked him along with his Naga companions. Ultimately, Alambusha gained the upper hand in the illusionary combat.

This is the version that appears in the Mahabharata. However, a completely different folklore is famous in South India. According to it, Iravan sacrificed himself before Goddess Kali on the eighth day of the war for the victory of the Pandavas. Before that, his last wish was to get married. Therefore, Shri Krishna assumed the form of Mohini and married him. The next day, he sacrificed himself, and Mohini lived on as his widow. Even today, this sacrifice is dramatically re-enacted in Tamil Nadu during the 18-day Koovagam festival, marking the conclusion of the festival. According to another folklore, Shri Krishna granted a boon to Iravan so that he could watch the victory of the Pandavas even after death. His severed head watched the entire war. Even today, Iravan's head (as an icon) is seen installed as a guardian on many temples in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The transgender community considers Iravan as their deity, and many festivals are still celebrated in the name of Iravan.

Babhruvahana

Taking leave of Ulupi, Arjuna crossed the Mahendra mountain and reached the kingdom of Manipura along the sea coast. The moment he saw Chitrangada, the beautiful daughter of King Chitravahana of Manipura, Arjuna desired to win her and expressed his wish to the King. Chitravahana inquired about Arjuna and told him the story of his lineage. One of Chitrangada's ancestors, King Prabhanjana, was childless. He performed severe penance and pleased Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva granted him a boon that he and his descendants would be blessed with a single child, who would naturally inherit the throne. In accordance with that rule, Chitravahana raised Chitrangada as a Putrika (a daughter treated as a son), and she was the heir to the kingdom. When Arjuna expressed his desire to marry Chitrangada, Chitravahana narrated the entire story and placed a condition: the child born to them would remain the heir to the kingdom of Manipura, and Arjuna could not take the child with him. Adhering to that condition, after Babhruvahana was born, Arjuna left him behind and returned to his brothers. Babhruvahana grew up to become the King of Manipura.

The great war ended. Yudhishthira became King and decided to perform the Ashvamedha Yajna. The sacrificial horse set out, followed by the army with four divisions viz. elephants division, chariots or car-warriors, cavalry & infantry  (Chaturanga Sena) of the Pandavas under the leadership of Arjuna. The horse moved along, crossing kingdom after kingdom. Some kings made futile attempts to stop it, but they could not hold their ground before the highly valiant Arjuna. Following Yudhishthira's commands, Arjuna spared them, accepted tribute, and let them go. The Ashvamedha horse, crossing rivers, streams, mountains, and valleys, left one kingdom after another behind and reached the kingdom of Manipura. Arjuna and the army arrived there following the horse.

The moment the highly powerful Babhruvahana heard this news, he hastened along with assembly of Brahmins to welcome Arjuna, his father. Arjuna stopped him with a gesture of his hand and questioned—in fact, rebuked—him. He said, "This behaviour of yours does not befit a Kshatriya King. When you have strength in your arms, why are you welcoming me with a platter of ceremonial lamps and flower garlands? Challenge me by stopping the Ashvamedha horse, and prove yourself worthy as my son, as the son of Partha."

As the two armies stood facing each other and the father was verbally lashing his son, Ulupi—Arjuna’s wife and Babhruvahana’s stepmother—emerged by breaching the earth. She immediately expressed agreement with the views of Arjuna, her husband. She said to her son, "Son, true manhood and the duty of a warrior (Kshatradharma) lie precisely in stopping the Ashvamedha horse and fighting its guardians—no matter who the commander of the incoming army is, even if it is your own father. If there is any doubt in your mind, I, as your mother, am removing it. Fight the war and prove yourself, and along with that, prove your father too."

Babhruvahana emerged from the spell of paternal affection and challenged the Gandiva-wielding Arjuna. An unprecedented battle began between the father and the son; it was like a battle between an object and its reflection. It was a musical-like duel of an arrow answering an arrow, a weapon counteracting a weapon, and a blow responding to a blow. Neither side was retreating. Arjuna broke Babhruvahana's bow; without wasting a single moment, Babhruvahana picked up another bow and continued shooting arrows. In this fierce clash, Babhruvahana placed an infallible arrow on his bow. He drew the bowstring all the way back to his ear, and in the blink of an eye, that arrow pierced Arjuna. The arrows of the invincible archer could not stop it, and piercing Arjuna's golden armour, the arrow went straight into his heart. The vanquisher, the invincible one who had defeated even Lord Shiva, the son of Pandu collapsed on the battlefield, slain by his own son. A deathly silence spread over the battlefield. It took a brief moment for Babhruvahana to comprehend what had happened. The moment the chilling truth dawned on him, the grief-stricken son fainted.

Like a wildfire, this news reached Chitrangada in the palace. The grief-stricken Chitrangada came running to the battlefield. Should she rejoice over her son's victory or mourn her husband's death? She also heard about Ulupi's intervention. She began blaming her for causing the death of her own husband. Chitrangada declared, "If my husband Arjuna does not come back to life, I will fast unto death (Prayopaveshana) at his feet and give up my life." She sat on the battlefield, holding Arjuna's head in her lap. When Babhruvahana regained consciousness and saw this sight, the guilt-ridden son also decided to fast and give up his body as penance.

Ulupi told both of them not to do any such thing. "I will bring Arjuna back to life. There is a mystical gem (Mani) in the Naga realm; with its touch, he will come alive." The moment Ulupi placed the celestial gem she possessed on Arjuna's chest, Arjuna sat up rubbing his eyes as if waking from a deep sleep, and asked what all this was about.

Ulupi now revealed everything. In the Mahabharata war, Bhishma's fall occurred at the hands of Arjuna. But at that time, Bhishma was not fighting Arjuna; shooting arrows from behind Shikhandi, Arjuna had placed Bhishma on a bed of arrows, leading to his death. According to his birth story, Bhishma was one of the Ashtavasus (eight celestial deities). The Vasus were enraged by this act, and rightfully so. They cursed Arjuna, closing his path to heaven. Arjuna did not know about this, because the moment the Vasus had expressed this desire, it had received consent from Mother Ganga.

When Ulupi's father Kauravya learned about this curse, he rushed to the Ashtavasus, pleased them, and requested a counter-curse/remedy (Ushapa) for his son-in-law, Ulupi's husband Arjuna. The Vasus granted the remedy: "If Arjuna meets his death at the hands of his own son, he will be liberated from this curse." Using the divine gem available with the Naga king, Ulupi had orchestrated all of this. For the fulfilment of the Ushapa, Arjuna died at the hands of Babhruvahana, and due to this divine gem, she got her husband back as well.

In due course, the Ashvamedha horse returned to Hastinapur, and the sacrifice was completed flawlessly. Babhruvahana, Chitrangada, and Ulupi were all accorded proper honours.

The Fate of Draupadi's Sons

As mentioned above, Youdheya, Sarvaga, Niramitra, and Suhotra find very little mention, at least in the Mahabharata.

Now, regarding the sons of Draupadi. Her five sons were Prativindhya, Sutasoma, Shrutakirti / Shrutakarma, Shatanika, and Shrutasena, respectively. All five sons were highly valiant Maharathis. Descriptions of the battles they participated in and the warriors they faced on different days are spread throughout the accounts of the Mahabharata war. In most descriptions, they are seen supporting one another. If one was deprived of his chariot, his brother would take him into his own chariot and keep the battle going.

Among the major duels was Prativindhya versus the demon king Alambusha. Alambusha's chariot had ghosts harnessed to it, was covered with bear skins, and on the crest of the chariot sat the king of vultures, flapping its wings and screaming. Ashwatthama, Shakuni, Dushasana, and Chhitrasen (one of the Trigarta kings) were other notable warriors they faced. Prativindhya slew Drumasena. As stated earlier, he was assisted in this by Shrutakarma, and Shrutakarma killed Chitrasena. Sutasoma fought against Karna's son Vikarna. While fighting against Karna's sons Satyasen and Sushen, Nakula's chariot horses and charioteer were killed. Sutasoma took  Nakula whose chariot was shattered, into his own chariot, and the enraged Nakula slew both Satyasen and Sushen. While fighting against the Kaurava brothers, Draupadi's sons are seen fighting with absolute unity. Jayatsena and Dushkarma, the Kaurava warriors, were killed at the hands of Shatanika. Shatanika also slew Shala (Bhurishrava's brother), the son of Somadatta. In the battle between Shatanika and Karna's son Vrishasen, when Shatanika's bow broke, his brother took him into his chariot. (King Virata's brother was also named Shatanika; confusion can arise due to the identical names with Draupadi's son). Shrutasena confronted Shalya and Sudakshina of Kamboja.

In short, Draupadi's sons emerged successfully tried and tested through the great war. But that joy lasted only for a short time. After the war, Ashwatthama, acting like Death personified and aided by Kripa and Kritavarma, launched a midnight raid on the Pandava camp. He slaughtered all five sons of Draupadi as they stumbled out of sleep, without their armour, fighting with whatever weapons they could grab at that moment.

The dispute that arose in the Mahabharata was between stepbrothers. In the case of the Pandavas' sons (the Upapandavas), there were both full siblings and stepbrothers; it wouldn’t have taken long for a rift to widen among them. When a war like the Mahabharata could not be averted and the immense massacre could not be stopped despite the presence of a righteous master like Yudhishthira, experts in various fields like Bhishma, Drona, and Kripacharya, and Shri Krishna himself—it is extremely difficult to say to what heights a dispute among the Upapandavas would have escalated after their time. What kind of ominous alliances and mega-alliances would have formed is something that perhaps even the great sage Maharishi Vyasa could not have imagined.

The seeds of the Second World War were sown in the First World War. Nothing of that sort happened in the war of the Mahabharata era. The creator of the Mahabharata, Sage Krishna Dvaipayana (Vyasa), seems to have taken precisely this care while writing the epic—ensuring that this domestic feud (fratricide) would not leave an opening for future conflicts. He seems to have taken care that this power struggle between the sons of two brothers, which caused the genocide and the Mahabharata, would not repeat itself. The lineage was left with a single heir to the kingdom in the form of Abhimanyu's son, Parikshit.

 

उपपांडव

उपपांडव नेमके कोण होते? द्रौपदीच्या पाचही मुलांना एकत्रितपणे उपपांडव म्हटले जाते, ज्यांचा जन्म युद्धाच्या १३ वर्षांच्या वनवास काळानंतर किंवा त्यादरम्यान झाला होता. पांडवांच्या सर्व पुत्रांना मिळुन एकत्रितपणे येथे उपपांडव किंवा पांडवपुत्र  असे संबोधिलेले आहे.

उपपांडव किंवा पांडवपुत्र ह्यांच्याविषयी, अभिमन्यु, घटोत्कच, बभ्रुवाहन आणि इरावण ह्यांचा सन्माननीय अपवाद वगळता महाभारतात किंवा त्यापश्चात  महाभारतावर लिहिल्या गेलेल्या खूप साऱ्या लिखाणात फारसे काही लिहिले गेलेले आढळत नाही आणि असलेच तर, निदान माझ्या वाचनात ते आलेले नाही. (माझा व्यासंग तसा फार नाही, तेंव्हा हे लिहिणे कदाचित धाडसाचे असेल).

हे असे असले तरीही ह्यातील काही उपपांडवांचा मृत्यू खूपच नाट्यपूर्ण, धर्मयुद्धाला सोडून झालेला दिसतो. प्रसंगाचे गांभीर्य, स्फोटकता, त्यातील नाट्य आणि त्याचे दूरगामी परिणाम ह्याचा विचार केला तर महाभारतात ह्या प्रसंगाच्या जवळपास येणारे फारच थोडे प्रसंग सांगता येतील. उदा. लाक्षागृह,  द्युत-द्रौपदी वस्त्रहरण, भीष्म-द्रोण, दुर्योधन-कर्ण ह्यांचे मृत्यू, निकष थोडा बदलला तर द्रोण शिष्यांचे अस्त्र-शस्त्र प्रदर्शन, कर्णाने अर्जुनाला दिलेले आव्हान आणि त्याची आणि दुर्योधनाची चिरकाल टिकलेली मैत्री, हेही प्रसंग धरता येतील. त्यामुळे त्यांच्या विषयी लिहिण्याचा मोह आवरता येत नाही.

द्रौपदीला पाच पांडवांपासून पाच पुत्र झाले. त्यांची नावे खालीलप्रमाणे युधिष्ठिर – प्रतीविंध्या, विंध्य पर्वतासारखा शत्रुच्या हल्ल्याला तोंड देतां अविचल राहू शकेल असा, भीम - सुतसोम, भीमाने एक सहस्त्र सोमयाग केल्यानंतर झालेला पुत्र, अर्जुन – श्रुतकर्मा किंवा श्रुतकीर्ती, अर्जुन एकटा वनवासात / देशाटन करत असतांना त्याने अनेक चांगली कर्मे केली, त्याची आठवण, नकुल - शतानिक, कुरु वंशातील महान राजर्षीचे नाव, सहदेव – श्रुतसेन, कृत्तिका नक्षत्रावर जन्मलेला म्हणून देवांचा सेनापती कार्तिकेय याचे नाव.

पांडवांनी इतरही विवाह केले होते.

युधिष्ठिर व देविका (शिबी देशाच्या गोवसेना राजाची राजकन्या) यांचा पुत्र यौधेया. ह्याचा युद्धात सहभाग नाही. गोवसेनाच्या महाभारतातील युद्धातील मृत्यूनंतर यौधेया शिबी देशाचा राजा झाला. 

भीम व वलन्धरा (काशी देशाची राजकन्या) यांचा पुत्र सर्वगा. ह्याचा युद्धात सहभाग नाही, कारण महाभारतातील महायुध्दानंतर पांडवांनी केलेल्या अश्वमेध यज्ञात काशी देशाचा राजा सुबाहु ह्याचा पराभव भीमाने केला आणि त्याच्या पराक्रमाने प्रभावित होऊन वलन्धरेने स्वयंवरात भीमाचा स्वीकार करून त्याबरोबर विवाह केला. सर्वग पुढे काशीचा राजा झाला असा उल्लेख आढळतो.  

भीम व हिडींबा यांचा पुत्र घटोत्कच. ह्याचा युद्धात महत्वाचा सहभाग. कर्णाच्या हातून वासवी शक्तीचा वापर करून घडवलेला घटोत्कचाचा मृत्यू.

अर्जुन व उलुपी यांचा पुत्र इरावण. उलुपी, नागराज कौरव्य ह्या नागाची कन्या. कौरव्याचा जन्म ऐरावतच्या (नागांचा सर्वात बलिष्ट राजा) कुळात झाला होता.

अर्जुन व चित्रांगदा यांचा पुत्र बभ्रुवाहन. चित्रांगदा ही मणीपुरा राज्याचा राजा चित्रवाहन ह्याची कन्या. तिच्या वडिलांनी चित्रवाहनाने बभ्रुवाहनाला मणिपुर राज्याचा वारस म्हणून दत्तक घेतले. बभ्रुवाहन पुढे मोठा होऊन मणीपुराचा राजा झाला.

अर्जुनाची चौथी पत्नी सुभद्रा. श्रीकृष्णाची बहिण. श्रीकुष्णाच्या इच्छेनुसार अर्जुनाने सुभद्राहरण केले. त्यांचा पुत्र अभिमन्यु. अभिमन्युचे बलिदान, धर्मयुद्धाचे सर्व नियम धाब्यावर बसवून झालेली हत्या.

नकुल व करेनुमती (शिशुपालाची मुलगी) ह्यांचा पुत्र निरामित्र. हा युद्धात सहभागी नव्हता. निरामित्र युद्धाच्या वेळेला खुप लहान असावा. पुढे मोठा होऊन तो मद्र देशाचा राजा झाला. नकुल, माद्रीचा पुत्र असल्यामुळे तो वारसा त्याच्याकडे आला. महाभारतात त्रिगर्ताचा राजपुत्र निरामित्र ज्याला सहदेवाने युद्धात मारले त्याच्या बरोबर नकुलपुत्र निरामित्राची बऱ्याच वेळा गल्लत केली जाते.   

सहदेव व विजया ह्यांचा पुत्र सुहोत्र. ह्याचा देखील युद्धात सहभाग नाही. विजया, मद्र प्रदेशातील साल्व राज्याचा राजा द्युतिमताची मुलगी. सुहोत्र ह्या नावाचा पुरू वंशात (चांद्रवंशीय) राजा होता. त्याचाही उल्लेख महाभारतात येतो. नाम साधर्म्य याखेरीच काहीही साम्य ह्या दोघांच्यात नाही.

उपपांडवांतील वयाने सर्वात मोठा घटोत्कच, त्याच्या पासूनच सुरवात करू. युद्धाच्या १४ व्या दिवशी अभिमन्युच्या वधाचा सूड म्हणून अर्जुनाने जयद्रथाचा वध केला. घटोत्कच राक्षस असल्यामुळे धर्मयुद्धाचे नियम त्याला लागू नव्हते आणि युद्ध सूर्यास्तानंतरही चालूच राहिले. अतुलनीय पराक्रम दाखवत आपल्या मायावी युद्ध कलेने कौरव सेनेची पार दाणादाण उडवली. द्रोणाचार्य, कर्ण, कृपाचार्य, स्वतः दुर्योधन, ह्यांच्या सारख्या कसलेल्या योद्ध्यांचा देखील त्याच्या पुढे निभाव लागेना. त्यांची ही गत झाल्यावर बाकीच्यांची काय कथा? नाही म्हणायला अश्वत्थामा घटोत्कच्याच्या सामर्थ्यापुढे तग धरून उभा राहिला. त्याने घटोत्कचाला थोपविण्याचा खूप प्रयत्न केला. पण त्यालाही यश आले नाही. कौरवांना पळता भुई थोडी झाली आणि घटोत्कचाने शत्रू सैन्याचा अविरत संहार चालूच ठेवला. दुर्योधनाला मदत करण्यास भगदत्त आपल्या हत्ती दलासहित घटोत्कचावर चालून आला, पण त्या हत्ती दलाचाही त्याच्या पुढे टिकाव लागला नाही. दुर्योधानाकडून लढणारा राक्षस राजकुमार आयुधान, महापराक्रमी, महावीर, जो महाकाय गाढवांच्या रथातून लढत होता, त्यालाही घटोत्कचाने यमसदनास धाडले. इरावण आणि अलाम्बुशाच्या युद्धात इरावणाचा वध झाला हे लक्षात येताच, घटोत्कच वायुवेगाने अलाम्बुशावर तुटून पडला. दोघांच्यात न भूतो न भविष्यती अशी लढाई सुरु झाली. दोघंही मायावी युद्धात पारंगत असल्यामुळे वेगवेगळे आकार, आभास आणि आयुधे ह्यांनी दोघंही एकमेकांच्या सैन्यावर कोसळत होते. कौरवसैन्य ह्या मायावी युद्धामुळे, आकाशातून येणाऱ्या बाणांचा, होणाऱ्या शीळांच्या वर्षावाला कसे तोंड द्यायचे हेच न कळल्यामुळे हवालदिल होऊन रण सोडून पळत होते. तीच गत थोड्याफार फरकाने पांडव सेनेची होती. त्यांचे सेनानी त्यांना थांबून लढण्याचे आवाहन करत होते. भीम, इतर पांडव, सात्यकी वगैरे वीर, पांडव सेनेला बरोबर घेऊन, मिळालेल्या संधीचा फायदा उठवीत कौरव सैन्याची तोड करत होते. ह्या रणधुमाळीच्या कोलाहलात अलाम्बुश व घटोत्कच ह्यांचे रथ हवेत उंच उडून एकमेकांना भिडले आणि द्वंद्वाला सुरवात झाली. शेवटी घटोत्कचाने अलाम्बुशाला रथातून ओढून आकाशातून जमिनीवर आपटले. अलाम्बुशाच्या देहाचे अक्षरशः तुकडे उडाले आणि तो महापराक्रमी राक्षस राजा धारातीर्थी पडला.

रक्त गोठवून टाकणाऱ्या आरोळ्या, घाम फोडणारी अक्राळविक्राळ रूपे आणि न दिसणाऱ्या योद्धायांकडून होणारा शस्त्रास्त्रांचा मारा ह्याने परास्त होऊन कौरवसेना दशदिशांना पांगली. आता दुर्योधनाचा नाईलाज झाला. कर्णाला गाठून त्याने कसही करून घटोत्कचाचा बीमोड कर अशी अक्षरशः विनंती केली. कर्णाला दुर्योधन काय सुचवित आहे याची कल्पना होती. वासवी शक्तीचा घटोत्कचावर प्रयोग करायला त्याने नकार दिला. मनोमन कर्णाला खात्री होती की वासवी शक्ती शिवाय तो अर्जुनाशी जिंकू शकत नाही. जी शक्ती त्याने इंद्राकडून त्याच्या अमरत्व देणाऱ्या कवच-कुंडलांच्या बदल्यांत मिळविली होती, आणि ती अर्जुनाशी होणाऱ्या निर्णायक युद्धासाठी त्याने राखून ठेवली होती. तसे त्याने दुर्योधानाला सांगितलेही. त्यावर राजा उत्तरला, “अरे मित्रा, आपण उद्याची सकाळ पाहिली तर अर्जुनाशी लढण्याचा प्रसंग येईल. ज्या वेगाने घटोत्कचाने कौरवांचा नाश चालविलेला आहे त्या वरून अर्जुनाशी लढायला उद्या आपल्यापैकी कोणीही शिल्लक राहील असें मला वाटत नाही. तेंव्हा घटोत्कचाला या क्षणी ठार मारणे आणि कौरवांना वाचवणे एव्हढाच पर्याय तुज पुढे आहे. ते तू वासवी शक्ती ने कर, अन्यथा दुसऱ्या मार्गाने, तो तुझा प्रश्न आहे.” दुर्योधनाच्या ह्या आदेशापुढे, अंकित कर्णाचे काहीएक चालले नाही आणि वासवी शक्तीचा प्रयोग त्याने घटोत्कचावर केला. वासवी शक्तीने आपले काम चोख केले, तो महान योद्धा धारातीर्थी पडला. वासवी शक्ती आपले काम बजावून इंद्राकडे परतली. पर्यायाने अर्जुनाला अभय मिळाले. ते युद्ध जिंकूनही, कर्णाची स्थिती, पराजितासारखी झाली. अर्जुनाबरोबरच्या त्याच्या युद्धाचा निकालच जणु लागला होता.

आपल्या चुलत्या करिता, कर्णाच्या मृत्यू करिता आणि पर्यायाने पांडवांच्या विजया करिता दिलेल्या घटोत्कचाच्या बलिदानानंतर अनेक प्रश्न निर्माण होतात. युद्ध भूमीवर त्याचा बळी तो अनार्य होता म्हणून दिला गेला? की पुढे जाऊन सर्वात मोठा म्हणून तो राज्यावर अधिकार सांगेल म्हणून? की राक्षस म्हणून बळी देण्यास तो योग्य होता? घटोत्कचाच्या मृत्यूचा शोक द्रौपदी पुत्रांच्या शोका इतका करूण कां बरें वाटत नाही?

घटोत्कचाच्या मागचा अभिमन्यु, त्याचे वीर मरण, त्याची कथा माहीत नसलेला विरळाच.  

महायुद्धाच्या १३ व्या दिवशी द्रोण, दुर्योधनाला दिलेले आपले वचन (युधिष्ठिराला जिवंत पकडण्याचे) पूर्ण करण्यासाठी चक्रव्यूहाची रचना करतात. द्रोणांचा युधिष्ठिराला जिवंत पकडण्याचा मनसुबा, अर्जुन युधिष्ठिरासोबत असतांना सफल होण्याची सुतराम शक्यता नव्हती. द्रोणाचार्यांनी सेनापातीपदाची धुरा सांभाळल्यापासून अथक प्रयत्न करूनही धर्माला पकडणे त्यांना शक्य झालं नव्हतं. अर्जुनाला युद्धभूमीपासून लांब नेण्याची खबरदारी संशप्तकांनी पुन्हा एकदा घेतली. ( संशप्तक - त्रिगर्तांचा राजा सुशर्मा, त्रिगर्तांचे आणि अर्जुनाचे जुने वैर होते, पार राजसूय यज्ञापासून, तो त्याचे भाऊ आणि त्यांची सेना ह्यांनी एकत्र होऊन घोर शपथ घेतलेली होती) (संशप्तक). शपथ होती, एकतर अर्जुनाचा मृत्यू त्यांच्या हातून होईल अथवा लढता-लढता ते मारले जातील, पण पाठ दाखविणार नाहीत. शपथ घेऊन या प्रचंड सेनेने जिवंतपणी स्वतःचे अंत्यविधी पार पाडले होते. थोडक्यात त्यांच्यातील कोणीही जिवंत परत येणार नव्हता. (आजच्या काळातील अतिरेक्यांचे घातपाती पथक असावे तसे).

चक्रव्यूहाचा भेद करून पुन्हा बाहेर पडण्याचे ज्ञान आणि शक्ति तीन वीरांच्यात होती. स्वतः श्रीकृष्ण, अर्जुन आणि कृष्ण पुत्र प्रद्यूम्न (जो महाभारतीय युद्धात कोणाच्याच बाजूने लढत नव्हता, बलरामासारखाच तोही तीर्थाटनाला गेला होता). प्रद्यूम्न हा अभिमन्युचा अस्त्र-शस्त्र विद्येतील गुरु. अभिमन्युला चक्रव्यूहात प्रवेश करणे ठाऊक होते, पण पुन्हा बाहेर येण्याचे ज्ञान त्याकडे नव्हते.

द्रोणाचार्यांनी केलेल्या सैन्याच्या चक्रव्युहात्मक रचनेत कौरव वीर आणि त्यांच्या बरोबरचे कौरव सैन्य ह्यांनी मिळून पांडव सेनेचा संहार सुरु केला. अर्जुन आणि श्रीकृष्ण ह्यांच्या अनुपस्थितीत द्रोणांचा सामना करण्याची जबाबदारी अर्जुनेतर पांडव, सात्यकी, पांचालपुत्र धृष्टद्युम्न, शिखंडी आणि इतर ह्यांच्यावर आली. ह्या सर्वांच्या अथक प्रयत्नांनंतर देखील व्यूहाचा भेद तर झालाच नाही, पांडवांची हानी मात्र झाली. युधिष्ठिराला द्रोणांनी दुर्योधानाला दिलेल्या वचनाची माहिती होती आणि अर्जुनाच्या अनुपस्थितीत जर युद्ध असेच चालू राहिले तर सूर्यास्तापर्यंत द्रोण आपल्यापर्यंत पोहोचतील अशी रास्त भिती देखील त्याला वाटत होती. त्याचा नाईलाज झाला. युधिष्ठिराकडे अभिमन्यूला चक्रव्यूहाचा भेद करायला सांगण्यावाचून पर्याय उरला नाही. अभिमन्युला विचारणा झाल्यावर अभिमन्यूने आपली मर्यादा स्पष्ट केली. तो म्हणाला “मी चक्रव्यूहाचा भेद नक्की करीन, आतही शिरेन, पण मला बाहेर कसं यायचं ते ठाऊक नाही. तसं घडलं तर त्या  परीस्थितीत मी सर्व कौरव वीरांसमोर एकटा पडीन”. यावर युधिष्ठीर, भीम, नकुल, सहदेव, पांचाल बंधु, सात्यकी ह्या सगळ्यांनी त्याला आश्वासन दिले की “तू व्यूहाचा भेद केलास, की तुझ्या पाठोपाठ आम्ही व्युहात शिरतो. तू एकटा पडणार नाहीस ही जबाबदारी आमची”. तसेही अर्जुनाच्या अनुपस्थित अभिमन्यूचे संरक्षण त्याच्या बलशाली काकांनी करणे अपेक्षित होते.  

अभिमन्यु चक्रव्यूहाचा भेद करून आत प्रविष्ट झाला. त्या वाटेने युधीष्ठीर, भीम, आणि इतर पांडववीर व्युहात शिरण्याच्या प्रयत्नात असतानाच जयद्रथ, सिंधु देशाचा राजा याने त्यांची वाट अडवली. घनघोर युद्धानंतर देखील, पांडव वीरांना आत शिरण्यात यश आले नाही. जयद्रथाला हे यश मिळण्याचे कारण त्याला महादेवांकडून मिळालेला वर. थोडक्यात, पांडव वनवासात असतांना द्रौपदीला एकटीला पाहून जयद्रथाने तिला रथात घेऊन पळवून नेले. पांडवांनी, मुख्यत्वे भीमार्जुनांनी त्याचा पाठलाग करून त्याच्या सैन्याचा निप्पात करत त्याची अक्षरशः धिंड काढली. द्रौपदी समोर त्याला नाक घासायला लावले. ह्या अपमानाचा सूड घेण्यासाठी जयद्रथाने महादेवाचे घोर तप केले आणि अर्जुनाला मारण्याची आपली इच्छा व्यक्त केली. प्रसन्न महादेवांनी “हे शक्य नाही, अर्जुनाला मी स्वतः पराभूत करू शकलो नाही, पण त्या बदल्यात अर्जुनेतर पांडवांना तू एक दिवस थोपवू शकशील” असा वर दिला. याचा परिपाक म्हणजे अभिमन्यु चक्रव्युहात एकटा पडला.

त्या दिवशी अभिमन्यूने अभूतपूर्व पराक्रम केला. कौरववीर अभिमन्यूला घेरून त्याच्यावर शरसंधान करत होते. पण त्यातील एकही बाण अभिमन्युपर्यंत पोचत नव्हता. अभिमन्युचे बाण त्यांना हवेतच थांबवत होते. तो वीर सगळ्यांना न्यायाने ज्याचे त्याचे माप देत होता. त्याच्या समोर युद्धात माघार घ्यायला लागलेल्या कौरव दिग्गज वीरांची यादी खूपच मोठी होती. खुद्द दुर्योधन, कर्ण, दुःशासन, शकुनी, शल्य, भूरीश्रवा, क्रथा, सोमदत्त, अश्वकेतु, मघदाचा राजपुत्र, कृप, द्रोण व त्यांचा पुत्र अश्वत्थामा, कृतवर्मा इत्यादी. अभिमन्युच्या हातून मारले गेलेले कौरव वीर देखील अनेक होते. वानगीदाखल, शत्रुंजय, चंद्र्केतू, महामेघना, सुवर्चास, सुर्यभास, कोसला राज्याचा राजा बृहद्दबाला आणि दुर्योधनपुत्र लक्ष्मण.

अभिमन्युच्या सुवर्ण कवचाचा भेद एकही बाण करू शकत नव्हता. त्या उलट अभिमन्यूचे बाण नेमकी जागा शोधून शत्रुच्या कवचाचा भेद करत त्यांचा निप्पात करत होते. द्रोणांना अभिमन्यूची स्तुती केल्यावाचून राहवले नाही. “अर्जुनाचा पुत्र शोभतोय, तसाच सव्यसाची. त्याच्या चिलखताचा भेद करता येत नाही, यात मला आश्चर्य वाटत नाही. मीच त्याच्या पित्याला कवच कसे घालायचे ते शिकविले आणि ते त्याने अभिमन्यूला. चिलखताची जोडणी शत्रूला कशी दिसणार नाही ह्याची काळजी घ्यावी लागते”. हे ऐकून कर्ण, दुर्योधनादिंचा तिळपापड झाला. ते द्रोणांना विचारते झाले, “आचार्य शत्रूची स्तुती पुरे झाली, त्याच्या पराभवाचा मार्ग सांगा. आपल्यातील एकही रथी, महारथी त्याच्यासमोर टिकत नाही. एकतर अभिमन्यूच्या हातुन मृत्यू अथवा त्याला पाठ दाखवून रणांगणातून माघार हे दोनच पर्याय आहेत”. द्रोणांनी मार्ग दाखवला. तुमचे बाण जरी त्याच्या पर्यंत पोहोचत नसले तरी त्याच्या शस्त्रांवर आघात करता येईल. सर्वांनी मिळून अभिमन्यूला निशस्त्र करा. द्रोण, कर्ण, दुर्योधन, बृह्द्द्बाला, कृप, अश्वत्थामा आणि कृतवर्मा सर्वांनी अभिमन्युला घेरले. सूर्यपुत्र कर्णाने त्याचे धनुष्य तोडले. द्रोणांनी त्याच्या रथाचे घोडे मारले, कृपाने सारथ्याला, सुमित्राला मारले. विरथ अभिमन्यु तलवार घेऊन लढू लागला. द्रोणांनी रथावरून शरसंधान करीत तलवार तोडली. कर्णाने ढालीच्या ठिकऱ्या उडविल्या. इतक्या जणांनी घेरल्यावर काहीजण अर्थातच अभिमन्यूवर पाठीमागून शरसंधान करत होते. कौरववीर रथावर आरूढ तर अभिमन्यु विरथ, कौरववीर शस्त्रांसहित तर अभिमन्यु जवळजवळ निशस्त्र. रथाचे चाक घेऊन तो कौरवांवर धावून गेला. साक्षात सुदर्शनधारी श्रीकृष्णासारखा भासला तो. अनेक बाणांनी, शस्त्राघातांनी घायाळ अभिमन्यु वैशाख वणव्यात फुललेल्या पलाश वृक्षासारखा दिसत होता. हातातील रथचक्राचेही तुकडे उडाले. महाकाय गदा घेऊन अभिमन्यु अश्वत्थाम्याच्या रथावर धावून गेला. त्याने रथाचे घोडे मारले, दोन रथी जे अश्वत्थाम्याला साथ देत होते त्यांना यमसदनाला धाडून, शकुनीचा मुलगा कालकेय याला देखील त्याच वाटेने पाठविले. दुःशासनाचा मुलगा (दृमसेन?) गदा घेऊन त्यावर तुटून पडला. एका क्षणी दोघेही वीर एकमेकांच्या प्रहाराने जमिनीवर कोसळले. दुःशासनाचा मुलगा आधी उभा राहिला आणि अभिमन्यु उभा रहाण्याच्या प्रयत्नात असतानाच दुःशासनाच्या मुलाने गदेचा प्रहार अभिमन्यूच्या मस्तकी केला. अभिमन्यु धारातीर्थी पडला. कौरवांनी एकच विजयनाद केला. अभिमन्यूच्या दुःखानेच जणु सूर्यास्त झाला. युद्ध १३ व्या दिवशी रात्री करता थांबले.

संशप्तकांचे निर्दालन करून अर्जुन शोकाकुल पांडव शिबिरात पोहोचला आणि युधीष्टीराच्या संरक्षणासाठी १६ वर्षाच्या अभिमन्यूने केलेले बलिदान त्याला समजले. द्रोण, कृप, कर्ण यांच्यासहित एकत्र येऊन अनेक कौरव वीरांनी मिळून निहत्थ्या अभिमन्यूची केलेली ती हत्या होती. त्यानंतर घडलेल्या घटना या लेखाच्या कक्षेबाहेर आहेत.

या नंतर झाला तो इरावाणाचा जन्म, नागकन्या उलुपी हिचा अर्जुनापासून झालेला पुत्र. युधिष्ठीर आणि द्रौपदि एकांतात असतांना अर्जुनाने त्यांच्या कक्षात प्रवेश केला आणि म्हणून आत्मक्लेशार्थ पत्करलेला वनवास. अर्जुन देशाटन करीत गंगा किनारी पोहोचला. एक दिवस गंगास्नान करतांना उलुपी त्याला घेऊन नागलोकात गेली. उलुपीने, अर्जुनाला मला स्वीकार अशी विनंती केली. तिच्या कुलाबद्द्ल समजल्यावर अर्जुनाने तिच्या मागणीला होकार दिला. इरावण नागलोकात वाढला आणि युद्धात पांडवांच्या बाजूने लढला. त्याने शकुनीचे गांधार बंधु मारले आणि घनघोर युद्ध करून कौरव सेनेची अपरमित हानी केली. कौरवांच्या बाजूने लढणाऱ्या अलाम्बुश ह्या राक्षस राजाने त्याचा वध केला. अलाम्बुश आणि इरावण ह्यांच्यातले युद्ध म्हणजे मायावी शक्ती आणि नागलोकातील युद्धकौशल्य ह्यांचा वापर करून झालेले एकमेव युद्ध होते. अलाम्बुशाने मायावी रूपे धरण करून इरावणाचा पराभव करण्याचा अनेकवेळा प्रयत्न केला, पण ते सर्व प्रयत्न हाणून पाडत इरावणाने नागलोकांसह त्याच्यावर हल्ला केला. सरतेशेवटी अलाम्बुश मायावी युद्धात वरचढ ठरला.

हा झाला महाभारतात आलेला भाग. पण दक्षिण भारतात एक वेगळीच लोककथा प्रसिद्ध आहे. त्यानुसार, इरावणाने देवी काली समोर पांडवांच्या विजयासाठी युद्धाच्या आठव्या दिवशी आत्मसमर्पण केले. तत्पूर्वी त्याची शेवटची इच्छा लग्न करावे अशी होती म्हणून श्रीकृष्णाने मोहिनी रूप घेऊन त्याच्याशी लग्न केले. दुसऱ्या दिवशी त्याने आत्मसमर्पण केले आणि मोहिनी त्याची विधवा म्हणून जगली. आजही तामिळनाड मध्ये १८ दिवस चालणाऱ्या कुवागम उत्सवात ह्या आत्मसमर्पणाचे नाट्य रुपांतर होऊन सणाची सांगता होते. दुसऱ्या लोककथेनुसार इरावणाला मृत्युनंतर देखील पांडवांचा विजय पहाता येईल असा वर श्रीकृष्णाने दिला. त्याच्या धडावेगळे झालेल्या शीराने युद्ध पहिले. आजही तामिळनाड, केरळ  मध्ये अनेक देवळांवर इरावणाचे शीर(आकृती) संरक्षक म्हणून लावलेले दिसते.

तृतीयपंथी समाजाने इरावणला आपला देव मानलेले आहे आणि इरावणाच्या नावाने अनेक उत्सव आजही साजरे होतात.

उलुपीचा निरोप घेऊन अर्जुन महेंद्र पर्वत पार करून समुद्र किनाऱ्याने मणीपुरा राज्यात पोहोचला. मणीपुरा राज्याचा राजा चित्रवाहन याची लावण्यवती कन्या चित्रांगदा, हिला पहाताच अर्जुनाला तिला प्राप्त करून घेण्याची इच्छा झाली आणि त्याने तसे राजाला बोलून दाखवले. चित्रवाहनाने अर्जुनाची चौकशी करून त्याला आपली कुलाची कथा सांगितली. चित्रवाहनाच्या पूर्वजांपैकी एक राजा प्रभंजन हा अपत्यहीन  होता. त्याने घोर तप करून महादेवांना प्रसन्न करून घेतले. महादेवांनी त्याला वर दिला की तो आणि त्याच्या वंशजाना एक अपत्य प्राप्ती होईल. अर्थातच तोच गादीचा वारस होईल. त्या नियमानुसार चित्रवाहनाने चित्रांगदेला पुत्रिका म्हणून वाढविले आणि तीच राज्याची वारस होती. अर्जुनाने चित्रांगदेशी विवाह करण्याची इच्छा प्रदर्शित केल्यावर चित्रवाहनाने त्याला वरील सर्व कथा सांगून अट घातली की तुम्हाला होईल ते अपत्य मणीपुरा राज्याचा वारस राहील आणि अर्जुन त्याला बरोबर नेऊ शकणार नाही. त्या अटीनुसार बभ्रुवाहनाच जन्म झाल्यावर अर्जुन त्याला मागे ठेवून आपल्या भावांकडे परत आला. बभ्रुवाहन मणीपुरा राज्याचा राजा झाला.

महायुद्ध झाले. युधिष्ठीर राजा झाला आणि त्याने अश्वमेध यज्ञ करायचे ठरविले. अश्वमेधाचा घोडा निघाला आणि त्यामागे निघाली पांडवांची चतुरंग सेना, अर्जुनाच्या नेतृत्वाखाली. राज्यामागून राज्य पार करीत घोडा निघाला. काही राजांनी त्याला अडविण्याचा विफल प्रयत्न केला. महाप्रतापी अर्जुनासमोर त्यांचा निभाव लागला नाही. युधीष्टीराच्या आज्ञेनुसार, अर्जुनाने त्यांना अभय देऊन खंडणी घेऊन सोडून दिले. अश्वमेधाचा घोडा, नदी नाले, डोंगर दऱ्या पार करत राज्यामागून राज्य मागे टाकत मणीपुरा राज्यात पोहोचला. घोड्याच्या मागोमाग अर्जुन व सेना तिथें पोहोचली.

महापराक्रमी बभ्रुवाहनाला ही बातमी समजताच तो ब्रह्मन्वृंदासमवेत अर्जुनाचे, आपल्या पित्याचे स्वागत करण्यास सरसावला. अर्जुनाने त्याला हातानेच थांबवले आणि पृच्छा केली, खरंतर निर्भत्सनाच केली; तो म्हणाला “तुझे हे वागणे क्षत्रिय राजाला शोभा देत नाही. हातात बळ असतांना तू ओवाळणीचे तबक घेऊन, पुष्पमाला घेऊन माझे स्वागत कसले करतोस? अश्वमेधाचा घोडा अडवून मला आव्हान दे आणि माझा पुत्र, पार्थ पुत्र म्हणून शोभ”. दोन सेना समोरासमोर उभ्या ठाकल्या आहेत आणि पिता, पुत्राचे वाक्ताडन करीत आहे, इतक्यात भूमीचा भेद करून उलुपी, अर्जुनाची पत्नी, बभ्रुवाहनाची सावत्र आई प्रकटली. तिने तात्काळ अर्जुनाच्या आपल्या पतीच्या मताशी सहमती दर्शविली. ती आपल्या मुलाला म्हणाली “अरे अश्वमेधाचा घोडा रोखणे आणि त्या बरोबर असलेल्या संरक्षकांशी लढणे ह्यातच खरा पुरुषार्थ आहे, हाच क्षात्रधर्म आहे. मग आलेल्या सैन्याचा सेनापती कुणीही कां असेना, अगदी तुझा पिता असला तरी. तुझ्या डोक्यात कुठलाही संदेह असेल तर तुझी आई म्हणून मी तो दूर करीत आहे. तू युद्ध कर आणि स्वतःला आणि त्याच बरोर तुझ्या पित्याला देखील सिद्ध कर”.         

बभ्रुवाहन मायेच्या कह्यातून बाहेर पडला आणि त्याने गांडीवधारी अर्जुनाला आव्हान दिले. पिता, पुत्रात न भूतो न भविष्यती असे युद्ध सुरु झाले. बिंब, प्रतिबिम्बाचीच लढाई होती जणु. बाणाला बाणाने उत्तर, अस्त्राला प्रति-अस्त्र, आघाताला प्रत्याघात अशी जुगलबंदी चालू होती. कोणीच पाठी हटत नव्हते. अर्जुनाने बभ्रुवाहनाचे धनुष्य तोडले, क्षणाचाही विलंब न होता बभ्रुवाहनाने दुसरे धनुष्य उचलून शरसंधान चालूच ठेवले. ह्या धुमश्चक्रीत बभ्रुवाहनाने एक अमोघ बाण धनुष्यावर चढवला. प्रत्यंचा पार कानामागे ओढली आणि डोळ्याचे पाते लवते न लवते तोच त्या बाणाने अर्जुनाचा वेध घेतला. अजेय धनुर्धराचे बाण त्याला थांबवू शकले नाहीत आणि अर्जुनाचे सुवर्ण कवच भेदून बाण त्याच्या हृदयापर गेला. शत्रुंजय, अजेय, महादेवांनाही पराभूत करणारा, पंडू पुत्र धारातीर्थी कोसळला, आपल्या पुत्राहातून मारला गेला. युद्धभूमीवर सन्नाटा पसरला. बभ्रुवाहनाला काय घडले हे कळायला क्षणिक वेळच लागला. काय घडले हे समजताच शोकाकुल पुत्र मृच्छा येऊन धरणीवर पडला.  

वणव्यासारखी ही बातमी राजवाड्यात चित्रांगदेपर्यंत पोहोचली. शोकाकुल चित्रांगदा धावतच रणभूमीवर पोहोचली. पुत्राच्या विजयाचा आनंद मानायचा की पती निधनाचे दुःख? तिच्या कानी उलुपीचा हस्तक्षेप देखील पोहोचला. आपल्या पतीच्या, स्वतःच्या पतीच्या मृत्यूला कारणीभूत झाल्याबद्दल ती तिला दुषणे देऊ लागली. चित्रांगदेने जाहीर केले “माझा पती अर्जुन जर जिवंत झाला नाही, तर त्याच्या पायाशी मी प्रायोपवेशन करून प्राण त्याग करीन”. अर्जुनाचे डोके मांडीवर घेऊन ती युद्धभूमीवर बसली. बभ्रुवाहनाला शुद्ध आल्यावर हे दृश्य बघून पश्चातापदग्ध बभ्रुवाहनाने देखील प्रायश्चित्त म्हणून अन्न त्यागून देह टाकण्याचे ठरवले.

उलुपीने दोघांनाही असे काही करू नका असे सांगितले. “मी अर्जुनाला जिवंत करीन. नागलोकात एक दिव्य रत्न आहे. त्याच्या स्पर्शाने हे जिवंत होतील”. आपल्या जवळचे दिव्य रत्न अर्जुनाच्या छाती वर उलुपीने ठेवताच, साखर झोपेतून जागे झाल्यासारखा अर्जुन डोळे चोळत उठून बसला आणि हा सगळा काय प्रकार आहे असे विचारता झाला.

उलुपीने आता सगळ्याचा उलगडा केला. महाभारतयुद्धात भीष्माचा वध अर्जुनाच्या हाती झाला. पण त्यावेळी भीष्म अर्जुनाशी लढत नव्हते, शिखंडी आडून अर्जुनाने शरसंधान करून भीष्मांना शरपंजरी पाडले आणि त्यांचा मृत्यू झाला. भीष्म त्यांच्या जन्मकहाणीनुसार अष्टवसुंपैकी एक, वसूना ह्या कृत्याचा राग आला आणि तो योग्यही होता. त्यांनी अर्जुनाला शाप देऊन त्याचा स्वर्गाचा मार्ग बंद केला. ही गोष्ट अर्जुनालाही ठाऊक नव्हती. कारण वसुंनी ही इच्छा बोलून दाखविताच माता गंगेकडून त्याला होकार मिळाला होता.

उलुपीचा पिता कौराव्याला ह्या शापाविषयी समजताच त्याने अष्टवसुंकडे धाव घेतली आणि त्यांना प्रसन्न करून घेतले आणि आपल्या जावयासाठी, उलुपीच्या पतीसाठी, अर्जुनासाठी उःशाप देण्याची विनंती केली. वसुंनी उःशाप दिला. “जर अर्जुनाचा मृत्यू त्याच्या मुलाच्या हातुन घडला तर ह्या शापातून तो मुक्त होईल”. नागराजाकडे असलेल्या दिव्य रत्नाचा वापर करून उलुपीने हे सर्व जमवून आणले. उःशापाच्या पूर्ततेसाठी बभ्रुवाहनाहाती अर्जुनाचा मृत्यू झाला आणि ह्या दिव्य मण्यामुळे तिचा पती तिला परतही मिळाला.

अश्वमेधाचा घोडा यथावकाश हस्तिनापुरी परत आला आणि यज्ञ यथासांग पार पडला. बभ्रुवाहन, चित्रांगदा, उलुपी ह्या सर्वांचा यथोचित आदर करण्यात आला.

वर म्हटल्याप्रमाणे यौधेय, सर्वग, निरामित्र आणि सुहोत्र ह्याचा निदान महाभारतात तरी फारसा उल्लेख आढळत नाही.

आता द्रौपदि पुत्रांबद्दल. द्रौपदीचे पाचही पुत्र अनुक्रमे प्रतीविंध्य, सुतसोम, श्रुतकीर्ती / श्रुतकर्मा, शतानिक, श्रुतसेन. हे पाचही पुत्र अतिशय पराक्रमी, महारथी होते. वेगवेगळ्या दिवशी त्यांनी भाग घेतलेल्या युद्धाची आणि योद्ध्यांची वर्णने महाभारतयुद्धात ठिकठीकाणी आहेत. बहुतेक वर्णानात ते एकमेकांना साथ देतांना दिसतात. एखादा विरथ झाला तर त्याचा भाऊ त्याला आपल्या रथात घेऊन युद्ध चालू ठेवतांना दिसतात. त्यात महत्वाची द्वंद्वे प्रतीविंध्या विरुद्ध अलाम्बुश राक्षस राजा. त्याच्या रथाला पिशाच्चे जोडलेली होती, अस्वलांच्या कातड्याने रथ मढवलेला होता आणि रथाच्या कळसावर गिधाडांचा राजा पंख फडफडवत, चित्कारत विराजमान होता. अश्वत्थामा, शकुनी, दुःशासन, त्रिगर्त राजांपैकी एक चित्रसेन हे इतर नाव घेण्यासारखे योद्धे. प्रतीविंध्याने दृमसेनाचा वध केला. वर म्हटल्याप्रमाणे ह्यात त्याला श्रुतकर्माची साथ मिळाली आणि श्रुतकर्माने चित्रसेनाचा वध केला. सुतसोमाने कर्णपुत्र विकर्णा बरोबर युद्ध केले. कर्णपुत्र सत्यसेन, सुशेन ह्यांच्याबरोबर लढतांना नकुलाच्या रथाचे घोडे, सारथी मारले गेले. विरथ झालेल्या नकुलाला सुतसोमाने आपल्या रथात घेतले आणि क्रुद्ध नकुलाकडून सत्यसेन व सुशेन दोघेही मारले गेले. कौरव बंधुंबरोबर लढताना द्रौपदी पुत्र एकोप्याने लढताना दिसतात. जयत्सेना, दुःशकर्मा हे कौरव वीर शतनिकाच्या हातून मारले गेले. शतनिकाने शल (भूरीश्रावाचा भाऊ) ह्या सोमादत्ताच्या मुलाचा वध केला.  शतनिक आणि कर्णपुत्र वृषसेन ह्यांच्या युद्धात शतनिकाचे धनुष्य तुटल्यावर त्याला त्याच्या भावाने त्याला रथात घेतले. राजा विराटाचा भाऊ देखील शतनिक, त्याच्या सोबत, द्रौपदिपुत्राच्या नाम साधर्म्यामुळे गोंधळ होऊ शकतो. श्रुतसेनाने शल्य, कम्भोजचा सुदक्षिणा ह्यांचा सामना केला.

थोडक्यात द्रौपदीपुत्र महायुद्धातून ताऊन सुलाखून बाहेर पडले. पण तो आनंद थोडक्या काळाकरताच टिकला. युद्धानंतर प्रत्यक्ष कृतांतासारख्या अश्वत्थाम्याने, कृप आणि कृतवर्म्याच्या मदतीने भर रात्री पांडवांच्या शिबिरावर छापा घालून, झोपेतून धडपडत उठलेल्या, अंगावर चिलखत व कवच नसताना, हातात अशावेळी मिळेल त्या हत्याराने लढणाऱ्या पाची द्रौपदिपुत्रांचा घात केला.          

महाभारतात निर्माण झालेला वाद सावत्र  भावांच्यात होता आणि पांडव पुत्रांच्या (उपपांडव) बाबतीत तर सहोदर आणि सावत्र अशी भावंड, त्यांच्यात बखेडा उभा राहायला वेळ लागला नसता. युधिष्ठीरासारखा धर्मज्ञ, भीष्म, द्रोण, कृपाचार्या  सारखे अनेक विषयातील मर्मज्ञ आणि खुद्द श्रीकृष्ण असूनदेखील  जे महाभारत टळू शकले नाही, जो अपार नरसंहार झाला तो थांबला नाही. त्यांच्या पश्चात उपपांडवातील तंटा  (झालाच असता तर?) कोणत्या थराला गेला असता हे  सांगणे महाकठीण. कोणकोणत्या अभद्र युती, महायुती झाल्या असत्या ह्याची कल्पना करणे बहुदा महामुनी महर्षि व्यासांना देखील शक्य झाले नसते.

दुसऱ्या महायुद्धाची बीजे पहिल्या महायुद्धात लावली गेली. तसे काहीही महाभारतकालीन महायुद्धात झाले नाही. महाभारतकार कृष्ण द्वैपायन (व्यास) मुनींनी महाभारत लिहिताना नेमकी हीच काळजी घेतल्यासारखी वाटते, ह्या गृहकलहात (भाऊबंदकीत) पुढील कलहाची नांदी नसेल. दोन भावांच्या मुलांच्यातील ही सत्ता स्पर्धा जी नृसंहाराला, महाभारताला कारणीभूत ठरली तिची पुनरावृत्ती होणार नाही ह्याची दक्षता घेतल्यासारखी वाटते. अभिमन्यु पुत्राच्या, परीक्षिताच्या रूपाने राज्याला एकमेव वारस उरला.

Japan – A blend of tradition and modernity

 

 

Introduction

My introduction to Japan first came during geography lessons in school –“The Land of the Rising Sun.” A country called by such a name actually exists!  But the sun rises in every country, so what makes Japan special? It took a little more time to understand what “Land of the Rising Sun” truly meant. Later, while studying the history of World Wars, Japan appeared anew as an aggressive nation. A country nearly destroyed at the end of World War II by the catastrophic use of nuclear weapons, yet rising again from the ashes like a phoenix to take its place among the world’s most advanced nations – Japan had always beckoned me. That moment finally arrived in the year 2026.

After preparations that would remind you of the saying “making a mountain out of a molehill,” I reached Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport on April 7th with my fellow travelers. Introductions were exchanged right there. The flight departed at 11:30 PM and we eventually landed at Tokyo’s Narita Airport.

Arrival

Narita is actually 80 km from Tokyo, yet it is referred to as the Tokyo Airport. Both Narita (international) and Haneda (domestic, 26 km away) are known as Tokyo airports. Tokyo city and three prefectures – Kanagawa, Chiba, and Saitama – together form Greater Tokyo. Narita Airport falls in the Chiba prefecture. All these are located on Honshu, Japan’s largest island, which is also home to Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Kyoto, and Hiroshima. In short, like most tourists, our Japan experience was limited to the island of Honshu. Japan is a country of 6,000 islands, many too small to be inhabited.

A word about immigration and customs: after standing in queue, a female officer scanned our passports, took fingerprints of two fingers, and photographed our faces. After filling out an immigration form, we received the passport stamp and moved on. At customs, after filling another form, a screen showed a list of prohibited items and we confirmed on screen that none were in our luggage. The whole process took less time than it took me to recall and write this! (QR codes generated on the web portal can speed this up further – we had printed QR codes ready.)

Prohibited items in Japan: All fresh fruits, vegetables, seeds, flowers, potted plants; all meat and animal products (frozen, dried, or cooked); any soil or soil-mixed plants; animal-derived products including eggs, milk, unprocessed leather goods, etc. These must be declared at the quarantine counter or heavy fines apply.

We ended April 8th with an Indian meal and checked into the ANA Crowne Plaza hotel for one night.

April 9 – Lake Ashi & Mount Fuji

With everyone’s large bags loaded swiftly by the driver, our bus departed at exactly 8:30 AM with a chant of “Ganpati Bappa Morya!” Destination: Lake Ashi (Ashinoko). We arrived about two and a half hours later. This lake was formed by a meteor crater.

Here we travelled on a boat resembling a historic pirate ship. During the roughly 40-minute ride, we moved across three decks, the upper two decks were swept by strong winds (so strong were the winds that there was risk, that the ride could have been cancelled). The boat stops at Togendai, Hakone-machi, and Moto-Hakone ports. On a clear day, the snow-capped peak of Fujiyama / Fujisan (here “San” means mountain, not an honorific) or the famous Mount Fuji is visible. Japan has two primary religions: Shinto (which reveres nature as God) and Buddhism. Shinto places of worship are called shrines, Buddhist ones are called temples.

Just as offerings are made back home when a wish is fulfilled, Torii gates are erected for the similar reasons. The blue water of the lake darkened by the overcast conditions, the greenery on the surrounding hills, the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji behind them, and the red Torii gate of the Hakone shrine seemingly floating in the water on the opposite shore – it was a mesmerizing sight. For a moment, even the howling wind was forgotten.

After crossing the lake, we were supposed to visit Owakudani (the boiling valley with hot springs) via ropeway. But due to the strong winds, the ropeway was closed and we went by bus instead. As we stepped off, the smell of Sulphur greeted us. Steam was visible rising in the distance.  

This valley was formed by a volcanic eruption over 3,000 years ago. Hot springs and sulfuric fumes constantly escape through cracks in the ground. 

Owakudani is famous for Kuro-Tamago – black eggs hard-boiled in sulfuric hot spring water. There is even a statue of a black egg there, and tourists were competing enthusiastically to get photos with it. The wind was so strong it was an effort just to stand still.

After an Indian lunch, we headed towards Mount Fuji. 

Unfortunately, conditions that day were also unsafe and we had to be satisfied at the first stop – 1,291 meters up, the road was closed. According to Google weather, the temperature at the 5th station (our intended destination) was -14°C. Though it seemed disappointing at first, Fuji had been accompanying us on both sides since morning. Many tourists we’ve heard of weren’t even able to see Fuji due to cloudy weather – in that sense, we were truly fortunate. Many other buses were parked around us – all fellow sufferers.

In the evening, after dinner, we checked into La Vista Tokyo Bay hotel for three nights.

April 10 – Tokyo

The day began at exactly 9 AM with Bappa’s chant. First stop: Tokyo Sky Tree Tower – a broadcasting tower on the banks of the Sumida River.  

At 634 meters (2,080 feet), it is the world’s tallest tower and the world’s third tallest structure.

The tower has two observation decks: Tembo Deck at 350 m and Tempo Galleria at 445–450 m. From 450 m you can walk on glass down to 445 m – the world’s highest skywalk. Our deck was at 350 m. The elevator is enormous – our group of 30 fit comfortably. Its speed is approximately 7 m/second, reaching 350 m in under a minute (50 seconds).

The view from the top was typical of such skyscrapers (like Burj Khalifa), but what struck us especially was the density of buildings – far more than you could imagine in any given area. Bridges, towers, water channels, sports grounds, stadiums – all visible. And even from that height, Japanese cleanliness was unmistakable. 

Like other tall observation decks, there is a glass floor here too. Some couldn’t bring themselves to stand on it. Since none of our group had a fear of heights, everyone enjoyed it thoroughly.

Next stop after lunch: Ueno Park – where we had hoped to witness the cherry blossom spectacle. When we arrived it was drizzling. The continuous rain had washed away most of the blossoms. A few trees still held on to their flowers in the rain. Just enough to imagine what the full bloom must look like.

Our Japanese guide was uncertain whether the Meguro River boat ride would proceed. 

But the boat company decided to provide raincoats to all passengers, and we headed to the jetty. Everyone donned white raincoats. Someone in our group compared us all to penguins – and indeed, in those wet white coats, everyone waddled just like one! As the boat set off, the banks of the river revealed Sakura trees still in bloom on both sides – the same Cherry blossoms that had eluded us at Ueno Park. They leaned over the water as if admiring their own reflection. Pink petals floated on the water; in places the water itself looked pink. As the boat passed under bridges, people stopped to wave at us – perhaps the sight of white-raincoated tourists on a rainy day surprised them. None of us had a slightest complaint about the inconvenience caused or the wet experience. It turned out to be a truly memorable experience.

After the boat ride, we visited TeamLab Planets – a digital art museum with three main sections: Water (you walk through flowing water barefoot), Forest (an immersive virtual jungle with animals and birds around you), and Garden (flying butterflies, falling orchids). Curtains of beads, infinite reflections from clever mirror arrangements, light and sound woven together – the actual experience surpasses any photos or videos.

April 11 – Shinkansen to Hiroshima

Our bullet train was at 8:33 AM. We left La Vista at 6 AM with our hand bags as our large bags were couriered to the next destination.

Tokyo Station started functioning in 1914, which was severely damaged in bombing on 25th May 1945 but quickly resumed services. Shinkansen the high-speed rail up to Osaka started in 1964.
At Tokyo Station, the crowds reminded us of CST or Churchgate station in Mumbai on a busy evening. Our petite guide and her flag disappeared into the crowd like sugar dissolving in water. "Follow the Flag" rule became, don’t lose the sight of the group member ahead of you. Everyone reached the correct platform on time.

The plan was revised to use three Shinkansen trains instead of two. The first, Hikari (Light), departed Tokyo at 8:33 and reached Shin-Osaka (new Osaka – the Shinkansen station) at 11:17. The second train to Hiroshima left from a different platform at 11:31 – just 14 minutes to get there with luggage. We made it. The third, Nozomi (Hope) – Japan’s fastest Shinkansen – departed at 6:18 PM from Hiroshima to Kyoto.

The cleanliness was extraordinary – on platforms, in trains, on stairways. The train pilot’s uniform and bearing made us feel like personal guests. Another staff member (likely the TC) was seen kneeling to speak to passengers without disturbing co-passengers and helping them with luggage. The carriage was completely silent – not a single mobile ringtone was heard. Upcoming station announcements were made in advance, including which side the platform would be on. A perfect model of discipline.

Hiroshima

Stepping off at Hiroshima station, it was hard to believe this city was completely destroyed 80–81 years ago. 

We visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, home to the Genbaku Dome (Atomic Bomb Dome / A-Bomb Dome), originally constructed in 1915- the only building left standing near the hypocentre of the August 6, 1945 bombing. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Nearby stands the Aioi Bridge (new), which replaced the original T-shaped bridge – that unique shape made it easily visible to bomber aircraft and it was the intended target of the attack.

From the inscription at the site: The original Aioi Bridge was built in 1932 in a distinctive “T” shape. It bore approximately seven tons of pressure per square meter – 15 times normal atmospheric pressure – causing it to heave violently like a leaf spring. The slab flew into the air, yet the bridge miraculously survived and remained in use for over 35 more years before being replaced in October 1983.

At the Peace Memorial, under a glass case lie the names of the 140,000 Japanese civilians killed in the attack. This list continues to grow – entire families were annihilated with no records available at the time, and some victims died later from radiation-induced cancer. 

A flame burns perpetually. Visitors offer silent tributes.

Sadako Sasaki’s memorial is also here. Born in 1943, she was just 2 years old during the bombing. She survived but developed Leukemia ten years later. According to Japanese legend, if an ill person folds 1,000 origami cranes (orizuru), they will recover. Sadako folded 644 cranes – even from medicine wrappers – but she could not be saved. She died on October 25, 1955. To this day, paper cranes are sent from around the world as tributes to her.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum documents the bombing. The visit is a harrowing, sorrowful, deeply disturbing experience – photographs, burned and shredded clothing, a child’s tricycle, a documentary film. The victims were entirely innocent. Whatever anyone may say, I will always say: what happened was inhumane and utterly ruthless.

Kyoto

Kyoto is like India’s Kashi or Haridwar – a city of temples and sacred sites. The government has enacted special construction rules to preserve its character. There is literally a temple or shrine every few steps. No skyscrapers exist here – not a single building taller than the highest temple spire in the city. Old structures have been preserved; development has been carefully managed to protect them.

April 12 – Kyoto Sightseeing

After breakfast, our bus took us to Sagano Romantic Train Station. 

The train runs between Arashiyama and Kameoka stations through the Hozugawa River valley – river, mountains, and greenery alternating on both sides. Cherry blossom eluded us here too. Honestly, the experience wasn’t particularly “romantic” for me (perhaps an age thing) – the train was loud and a staff member was announcing something over the speaker in Japanese, which required shouting to be heard over the noise.

From there we walked through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove – dense bamboo on both sides of a narrow path, reaching for the sky, some green, some yellow, with grass and other plants at the base. 

There were crowds of tourists, everyone jostling for selfie spots. I couldn’t help thinking: what if for just a moment all these tourists vanished and I stood alone in the silence, listening to the wind rustle through the bamboo? Poet’s fancy – enough of that! We had ice cream at the other end, took photos by the river, and moved on.

Around 4 PM we reached Kiyomizu-dera Temple, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Founded in 778 AD in Eastern Kyoto, it predates Kyoto becoming the capital.  These photos are from inside the temple. It is the 16th temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage – a pilgrimage of 33 temples in the Kansai region dedicated to Kannon (a Bodhisattva who has postponed their own enlightenment to help others attain it).

From outside the temple one can see Kyoto city and on the slops of the mountain thick vegetation interrupted by Sakura blossom.

At Otowa Waterfall, three streams fall through bamboo pipes. Each is considered sacred: the right stream grants health and longevity, the middle grants love, and the left grants success. 

One should drink from only one stream – drinking from all three is considered greedy. Long-handled ladles are provided, and the area where the ladles are returned is sterilized by UV light.

In the evening we dined at an Indian restaurant called Sudarshan, where we enjoyed Chinese food!

April 13 – Kimono Day & Fushimi Inari

After a hearty breakfast we hurried out – arriving late would mean not getting the desired kimono (rental). 

After putting on kimonos and taking endless photos, we visited Fushimi Inari Taisha – the most important Shinto shrine in Kyoto.

In the shrine complex we saw many fox statues, each holding something in its mouth. The fox is a symbol of prosperity; some hold ears of corn, symbolizing a successful harvest. These are exquisitely carved and beautifully maintained. The shrine was established in 711 AD.

Further in, we encountered thousands of Torii gates (reportedly 10,000). Of these, 800–1,000 are so closely spaced that walking through them feels like a tunnel – these are called Senbon Torii (thousands of Torii). Climbing to the top requires a 4 km walk; time did not permit.

We then visited the Kizakura Sake Brewery, where Sake is made using water from the Fushimizu spring. Rice is the raw material, and the degree of polishing determines the quality of Sake. Everything is explained through exhibits and a film. After which everyone savoured Sake to their heart’s content!

We returned to the Mercure Hotel for the night.

April 14 – Nara & Osaka Shopping

The final day! Everyone was looking forward to it – not because the trip was ending, but because shopping awaited!

Morning: Todai-ji Temple and Nara Deer Park. 

Todai-ji is one of the seven great temples of Nara, built in 738 and opened to the public in 752. Extensively restored, the current appearance dates from 1974–80.  

It houses the largest seated Buddha statue in Japan (also called the Great Buddha, accepted by Shintoists as a solar form). The surrounding large figures are all crafted in wood. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

Directly in front of the temple is Nara Deer Park, where deer roam freely. You can buy rice cakes and feed them by hand. The deer gather around you and eat right from your hands. A warning though: just as children in kindergarten used to tug at the teacher’s saree to get attention, these deer grab and tug your clothes with their mouths to demand food – the difference being that deer have teeth and are unaware that you are inside your clothes! (Words from personal experience.) The first aid centre was well-equipped and staffed. After treating my small injury, the attendant handed me a printed note clearly stating: not a single case of rabies has been reported in Japan in the past 50 years, so no injection is needed – just treat it like any ordinary wound. And as a parting gesture, she gave me an origami deer to take along!

Then came the moment the ladies had been waiting for: Shopping! We headed to Dotonbori Street in central Osaka, along the Dotonbori River. 

A street of food stalls and medicine/cosmetic shops, closed to traffic, with bizarre moving figures above restaurants advertising their offerings. Since none of us were particularly interested in the food, we were all like Arjuna focused solely on the parrot’s eye – hunting for shops! 

The perpendicular Shinsaibashi-suji street is Japan’s most famous shopping street, with malls and virtually every global brand present.

 Japan is an expensive country, so don’t expect cheap bargains. No haggling anywhere. Branded goods are uniformly priced across Japan. It’s worth buying other items here rather than branded ones elsewhere.

After shopping, the satisfied group checked into a hotel adjacent to Kansai Airport for the last night. At 6 AM the next morning, breakfast done, we wheeled our luggage on trolleys from restaurant and walked just three to four minutes to the airport. 

Thus our Japan journey came to an end as we turned homeward. This Japan journey experience can be summed up in one word "Omotenashi". The unique Japanese concept of wholehearted, selfless hospitality, focusing on anticipating guests' needs without expecting anything in return, rooted in mindfulness, sincerity, and attention to details, often linked to elevating service beyond simple customer care, to a profound memorable experience. 

Acknowledgements

The credit for organizing this journey – bringing together 30 different minds into one cohesive group – goes to Shri Manish Kelkar of BG Tours, Pune. Heartfelt thanks also to Harshal and Kiki (our Japanese guide). There is always room for improvement in anything, but setting that aside – sincere thanks to the organizers and all fellow travelers.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​