Introduction
My introduction to Japan first came during geography lessons in school –“The Land of the Rising Sun.” A country called by such a name actually exists! But the sun rises in every country, so what makes Japan special? It took a little more time to understand what “Land of the Rising Sun” truly meant. Later, while studying the history of World Wars, Japan appeared anew as an aggressive nation. A country nearly destroyed at the end of World War II by the catastrophic use of nuclear weapons, yet rising again from the ashes like a phoenix to take its place among the world’s most advanced nations – Japan had always beckoned me. That moment finally arrived in the year 2026.
After preparations that would remind you of the saying “making a mountain out of a molehill,” I reached Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport on April 7th with my fellow travelers. Introductions were exchanged right there. The flight departed at 11:30 PM and we eventually landed at Tokyo’s Narita Airport.
Arrival
Narita is actually 80 km from Tokyo, yet it is referred to as the Tokyo Airport. Both Narita (international) and Haneda (domestic, 26 km away) are known as Tokyo airports. Tokyo city and three prefectures – Kanagawa, Chiba, and Saitama – together form Greater Tokyo. Narita Airport falls in the Chiba prefecture. All these are located on Honshu, Japan’s largest island, which is also home to Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Kyoto, and Hiroshima. In short, like most tourists, our Japan experience was limited to the island of Honshu. Japan is a country of 6,000 islands, many too small to be inhabited.
A word about immigration and customs: after standing in queue, a female officer scanned our passports, took fingerprints of two fingers, and photographed our faces. After filling out an immigration form, we received the passport stamp and moved on. At customs, after filling another form, a screen showed a list of prohibited items and we confirmed on screen that none were in our luggage. The whole process took less time than it took me to recall and write this! (QR codes generated on the web portal can speed this up further – we had printed QR codes ready.)
Prohibited items in Japan: All fresh fruits, vegetables, seeds, flowers, potted plants; all meat and animal products (frozen, dried, or cooked); any soil or soil-mixed plants; animal-derived products including eggs, milk, unprocessed leather goods, etc. These must be declared at the quarantine counter or heavy fines apply.
We ended April 8th with an Indian meal and checked into the ANA Crowne Plaza hotel for one night.
April 9 – Lake Ashi & Mount Fuji
With everyone’s large bags loaded swiftly by the driver, our bus departed at exactly 8:30 AM with a chant of “Ganpati Bappa Morya!” Destination: Lake Ashi (Ashinoko). We arrived about two and a half hours later. This lake was formed by a meteor crater.
Here we travelled on a boat resembling a historic pirate ship. During the roughly 40-minute ride, we moved across three decks, the upper two decks were swept by strong winds (so strong were the winds that there was risk, that the ride could have been cancelled). The boat stops at Togendai, Hakone-machi, and Moto-Hakone ports. On a clear day, the snow-capped peak of Fujiyama / Fujisan (here “San” means mountain, not an honorific) or the famous Mount Fuji is visible. Japan has two primary religions: Shinto (which reveres nature as God) and Buddhism. Shinto places of worship are called shrines, Buddhist ones are called temples.
Just as offerings are made back home when a wish is fulfilled, Torii gates are erected for the similar reasons. The blue water of the lake darkened by the overcast conditions, the greenery on the surrounding hills, the snow-capped peak of Mount Fuji behind them, and the red Torii gate of the Hakone shrine seemingly floating in the water on the opposite shore – it was a mesmerizing sight. For a moment, even the howling wind was forgotten.
After crossing the lake, we were supposed to visit Owakudani (the boiling valley with hot springs) via ropeway. But due to the strong winds, the ropeway was closed and we went by bus instead. As we stepped off, the smell of Sulphur greeted us. Steam was visible rising in the distance.
This valley was formed by a volcanic eruption over 3,000 years ago. Hot springs and sulfuric fumes constantly escape through cracks in the ground.
After an Indian lunch, we headed towards Mount Fuji.
Unfortunately, conditions that day were also unsafe and we had to be satisfied at the first stop – 1,291 meters up, the road was closed. According to Google weather, the temperature at the 5th station (our intended destination) was -14°C. Though it seemed disappointing at first, Fuji had been accompanying us on both sides since morning. Many tourists we’ve heard of weren’t even able to see Fuji due to cloudy weather – in that sense, we were truly fortunate. Many other buses were parked around us – all fellow sufferers.
In the evening, after dinner, we checked into La Vista Tokyo Bay hotel for three nights.
April 10 – Tokyo
The day began at exactly 9 AM with Bappa’s chant. First stop: Tokyo Sky Tree Tower – a broadcasting tower on the banks of the Sumida River.
At 634 meters (2,080 feet), it is the world’s tallest tower and the world’s third tallest structure.
The tower has two observation decks: Tembo Deck at 350 m and Tempo Galleria at 445–450 m. From 450 m you can walk on glass down to 445 m – the world’s highest skywalk. Our deck was at 350 m. The elevator is enormous – our group of 30 fit comfortably. Its speed is approximately 7 m/second, reaching 350 m in under a minute (50 seconds).
The view from the top was typical of such skyscrapers (like Burj Khalifa), but what struck us especially was the density of buildings – far more than you could imagine in any given area. Bridges, towers, water channels, sports grounds, stadiums – all visible. And even from that height, Japanese cleanliness was unmistakable.
Like other tall observation decks, there is a glass floor here too. Some couldn’t bring themselves to stand on it. Since none of our group had a fear of heights, everyone enjoyed it thoroughly.
Our Japanese guide was uncertain whether the Meguro River boat ride would proceed.
But the boat company decided to provide raincoats to all passengers, and we headed to the jetty. Everyone donned white raincoats. Someone in our group compared us all to penguins – and indeed, in those wet white coats, everyone waddled just like one! As the boat set off, the banks of the river revealed Sakura trees still in bloom on both sides – the same Cherry blossoms that had eluded us at Ueno Park. They leaned over the water as if admiring their own reflection. Pink petals floated on the water; in places the water itself looked pink. As the boat passed under bridges, people stopped to wave at us – perhaps the sight of white-raincoated tourists on a rainy day surprised them. None of us had a slightest complaint about the inconvenience caused or the wet experience. It turned out to be a truly memorable experience.
After the boat ride, we visited TeamLab Planets – a digital art museum with three main sections: Water (you walk through flowing water barefoot), Forest (an immersive virtual jungle with animals and birds around you), and Garden (flying butterflies, falling orchids). Curtains of beads, infinite reflections from clever mirror arrangements, light and sound woven together – the actual experience surpasses any photos or videos.
April 11 – Shinkansen to Hiroshima
Our bullet train was at 8:33 AM. We left La Vista at 6 AM with our hand bags as our large bags were couriered to the next destination.
At Tokyo Station, the crowds reminded us of CST or Churchgate station in Mumbai on a busy evening. Our petite guide and her flag disappeared into the crowd like sugar dissolving in water. "Follow the Flag" rule became, don’t lose the sight of the group member ahead of you. Everyone reached the correct platform on time.
The plan was revised to use three Shinkansen trains instead of two. The first, Hikari (Light), departed Tokyo at 8:33 and reached Shin-Osaka (new Osaka – the Shinkansen station) at 11:17. The second train to Hiroshima left from a different platform at 11:31 – just 14 minutes to get there with luggage. We made it. The third, Nozomi (Hope) – Japan’s fastest Shinkansen – departed at 6:18 PM from Hiroshima to Kyoto.
The cleanliness was extraordinary – on platforms, in trains, on stairways. The train pilot’s uniform and bearing made us feel like personal guests. Another staff member (likely the TC) was seen kneeling to speak to passengers without disturbing co-passengers and helping them with luggage. The carriage was completely silent – not a single mobile ringtone was heard. Upcoming station announcements were made in advance, including which side the platform would be on. A perfect model of discipline.
Hiroshima
Stepping off at Hiroshima station, it was hard to believe this city was completely destroyed 80–81 years ago.
We visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, home to the Genbaku Dome (Atomic Bomb Dome / A-Bomb Dome), originally constructed in 1915- the only building left standing near the hypocentre of the August 6, 1945 bombing. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Nearby stands the Aioi Bridge (new), which replaced the original T-shaped bridge – that unique shape made it easily visible to bomber aircraft and it was the intended target of the attack.
From the inscription at the site: The original Aioi Bridge was built in 1932 in a distinctive “T” shape. It bore approximately seven tons of pressure per square meter – 15 times normal atmospheric pressure – causing it to heave violently like a leaf spring. The slab flew into the air, yet the bridge miraculously survived and remained in use for over 35 more years before being replaced in October 1983.
At the Peace Memorial, under a glass case lie the names of the 140,000 Japanese civilians killed in the attack. This list continues to grow – entire families were annihilated with no records available at the time, and some victims died later from radiation-induced cancer.
A flame burns perpetually. Visitors offer silent tributes.
Sadako Sasaki’s memorial is also here. Born in 1943, she was just 2 years old during the bombing. She survived but developed Leukemia ten years later. According to Japanese legend, if an ill person folds 1,000 origami cranes (orizuru), they will recover. Sadako folded 644 cranes – even from medicine wrappers – but she could not be saved. She died on October 25, 1955. To this day, paper cranes are sent from around the world as tributes to her.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum documents the bombing. The visit is a harrowing, sorrowful, deeply disturbing experience – photographs, burned and shredded clothing, a child’s tricycle, a documentary film. The victims were entirely innocent. Whatever anyone may say, I will always say: what happened was inhumane and utterly ruthless.
Kyoto
Kyoto is like India’s Kashi or Haridwar – a city of temples and sacred sites. The government has enacted special construction rules to preserve its character. There is literally a temple or shrine every few steps. No skyscrapers exist here – not a single building taller than the highest temple spire in the city. Old structures have been preserved; development has been carefully managed to protect them.
April 12 – Kyoto Sightseeing
After breakfast, our bus took us to Sagano Romantic Train Station.
The train runs between Arashiyama and Kameoka stations through the Hozugawa River valley – river, mountains, and greenery alternating on both sides. Cherry blossom eluded us here too. Honestly, the experience wasn’t particularly “romantic” for me (perhaps an age thing) – the train was loud and a staff member was announcing something over the speaker in Japanese, which required shouting to be heard over the noise.
From there we walked through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove – dense bamboo on both sides of a narrow path, reaching for the sky, some green, some yellow, with grass and other plants at the base.
There were crowds of tourists, everyone jostling for selfie spots. I couldn’t help thinking: what if for just a moment all these tourists vanished and I stood alone in the silence, listening to the wind rustle through the bamboo? Poet’s fancy – enough of that! We had ice cream at the other end, took photos by the river, and moved on.
Around 4 PM we reached Kiyomizu-dera Temple, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Founded in 778 AD in Eastern Kyoto, it predates Kyoto becoming the capital. These photos are from inside the temple. It is the 16th temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage – a pilgrimage of 33 temples in the Kansai region dedicated to Kannon (a Bodhisattva who has postponed their own enlightenment to help others attain it).
From outside the temple one can see Kyoto city and on the slops of the mountain thick vegetation interrupted by Sakura blossom.
At Otowa Waterfall, three streams fall through bamboo pipes. Each is considered sacred: the right stream grants health and longevity, the middle grants love, and the left grants success.
One should drink from only one stream – drinking from all three is considered greedy. Long-handled ladles are provided, and the area where the ladles are returned is sterilized by UV light.
In the evening we dined at an Indian restaurant called Sudarshan, where we enjoyed Chinese food!
April 13 – Kimono Day & Fushimi Inari
After a hearty breakfast we hurried out – arriving late would mean not getting the desired kimono (rental).
After putting on kimonos and taking endless photos, we visited Fushimi Inari Taisha – the most important Shinto shrine in Kyoto.
Further in, we encountered thousands of Torii gates (reportedly 10,000). Of these, 800–1,000 are so closely spaced that walking through them feels like a tunnel – these are called Senbon Torii (thousands of Torii). Climbing to the top requires a 4 km walk; time did not permit.
We then visited the Kizakura Sake Brewery, where Sake is made using water from the Fushimizu spring. Rice is the raw material, and the degree of polishing determines the quality of Sake. Everything is explained through exhibits and a film. After which everyone savoured Sake to their heart’s content!
We returned to the Mercure Hotel for the night.
April 14 – Nara & Osaka Shopping
The final day! Everyone was looking forward to it – not because the trip was ending, but because shopping awaited!
Morning: Todai-ji Temple and Nara Deer Park.
It houses the largest seated Buddha statue in Japan (also called the Great Buddha, accepted by Shintoists as a solar form). The surrounding large figures are all crafted in wood. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.
Directly in front of the temple is Nara Deer Park, where deer roam freely. You can buy rice cakes and feed them by hand. The deer gather around you and eat right from your hands. A warning though: just as children in kindergarten used to tug at the teacher’s saree to get attention, these deer grab and tug your clothes with their mouths to demand food – the difference being that deer have teeth and are unaware that you are inside your clothes! (Words from personal experience.) The first aid centre was well-equipped and staffed. After treating my small injury, the attendant handed me a printed note clearly stating: not a single case of rabies has been reported in Japan in the past 50 years, so no injection is needed – just treat it like any ordinary wound. And as a parting gesture, she gave me an origami deer to take along!
Then came the moment the ladies had been waiting for: Shopping! We headed to Dotonbori Street in central Osaka, along the Dotonbori River.
A street of food stalls and medicine/cosmetic shops, closed to traffic, with bizarre moving figures above restaurants advertising their offerings. Since none of us were particularly interested in the food, we were all like Arjuna focused solely on the parrot’s eye – hunting for shops!
Japan is an expensive country, so don’t expect cheap bargains. No haggling anywhere. Branded goods are uniformly priced across Japan. It’s worth buying other items here rather than branded ones elsewhere.
After shopping, the satisfied group checked into a hotel adjacent to Kansai Airport for the last night. At 6 AM the next morning, breakfast done, we wheeled our luggage on trolleys from restaurant and walked just three to four minutes to the airport.
Thus our Japan journey came to an end as we turned homeward. This Japan journey experience can be summed up in one word "Omotenashi". The unique Japanese concept of wholehearted, selfless hospitality, focusing on anticipating guests' needs without expecting anything in return, rooted in mindfulness, sincerity, and attention to details, often linked to elevating service beyond simple customer care, to a profound memorable experience.
Acknowledgements
The credit for organizing this journey – bringing together 30 different minds into one cohesive group – goes to Shri Manish Kelkar of BG Tours, Pune. Heartfelt thanks also to Harshal and Kiki (our Japanese guide). There is always room for improvement in anything, but setting that aside – sincere thanks to the organizers and all fellow travelers.
1 comment:
Enjoyed reading the travelogue, it was like taking the trip again. Beautifully worded and supported with equally good photographs! Keep writing!
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