The Ancient Ruins-Hampi-Day-2

Today we have planned to go to Anjanadri Hill (Kishkindha) in Koppal district, Taluka Gangawati in Karnataka. As told in Mahabharat Hanuman was borne on Anjanadri Hill. This is supposedly one of the many birth places of Hanuman claimed by locals in different States in India. Two others are Anjanadri Hill at Tirumala Andhra Pradesh and Anjanadri Hill near Nasik in Maharashtra.  

Kesari and Anjana were Hanuman's parents.  As the story goes, the Payasam (rice pudding) was bestowed by Agni (fire God) upon Dasharath (king of Ayodhya) during Putrakameshti Yadgna.  Dasharath was carrying Payasam to his three wives. All of a sudden a kite flew by and snatched some portion of Payasam.  At the same time, on Anjandri hill, Anjana was worshiping with open palms.  Kite while flying over dropped the Pyasam, which Vayu (wind God) carried to Anajana's open palms. Taking it as a gift of God she ate it and the resultant baby was Hanuman. Hence Vayu is considered as spiritual father of Hanuman. Vayu also symbolises strength and speed, which Hanuman is known for.

We started at around 6 am. We had to climb 575 steps to reach the top. Nagaraj smart and prompt as usual suggested that if we are ready to follow him there is other route to the top. The route had lesser steps and gradual climb connecting sets of steps. As the average age of our group members was 65+years we chose to trust Nagaraj and followed him. He was so gracious that he promised us that he will be with the last person in the group reaching the top and he kept his promise.  

The climb was steep, it took us approx. 1hr 15 mins. Morning climate was pleasant with refreshing cool breeze that made it simpler than it looked. Sun rise was a amazing view with birds chirping around. The view was breath taking. Way below in the valley we could see lush green paddy fields, coconut trees and reflections of these tall palms in the water around.

The temple is very small and humble not like any of the marvels we had seen so far.

Being a hill top there are quite a few monkeys around. They are not harmful or trouble makers unless you have some eatables in your hands or water bottles. I happened to have one in my backpack with its cap visible from slightly open zip of the bag. I felt something on my back, before I could react small one opened the zip and took the water bottle. I tried to hold and pull back the bottle but it threatened me showing all its yellow teeth and I had to give up. These are all rhesus monkeys and they are regularly fed by the temple care takers. Apparently we had chosen right time and there was hardly any crowd in the temple.  

We had to wait for few minutes in the queue for darshan (to see the Hanuman idol) . We had nice darshan without crowd pushing or volunteers asking us to hurry up (common site in most of the popular places of worship). Going ahead there are idols of Sri Ram, Laxman, Sita. Next to these idols there is glass tank half filled with water and a black stone floating in the water with board reading "Stone used to build Ram Setu. Weight 25kg". Ram Setu is the bridge connecting Pamban Island near Rameshwar India to Manar Island in Sri Lanka (located in Palk strait) As the mythology goes this bridge was built by Sri Ram with the help of soldiers of Sugriva the monkey king. Next is idol of Anjana, mother of Hanuman. 

Plateau on which the temple is located is large and is overlooking the beautiful green valley below. The view from the top took away all the fatigue we had and we were fresh and decided to climb down from the official path. Water of Tungabhadra was visible at distance as a molten silver. Water inundated paddy fields were sparkling in the morning Sun and the greenery and calming cool had effect on all of us. 

We came across large crowd of devotees reciting Hanuman Chalisa, some were giving slogans Jay Sri Ram, Bajarangbali (another name for Hanuman) ki Jay (loosely translated victory to Sri Ram, Hanuman) while climbing and atmosphere was suddenly devotional. Individuals feel a sense of peace and connection. 

We reached the bottom of the hill and every body realised how hungry we were and rushed for the breakfast. All of us relished steaming idali, wada, dosai with hot sambar and green chatani, followed by coffee in  a road side restaurant. Our next destination was Virupaksha temple. 

On the way to Virupaksha temple, which is 7th century Shiva temple you can see Virupaksha bazaar  on the either sides of the road.

The multistoried shops in a row are spread more than 950 meters, little less than one kilometer parallel to the road. This was supposed to be one of the largest and most vibrant bazaar all across 7 bazaars in Vijayanagara. This was the place where gems, diamonds and other precious stones, pedigree horses from various countries, Spices, silk, rich textile, and elephants from Sri Lanka were coming for sale. These shops were used by more than 328 families as their homes as recently as 2011 when ASI with the help of Karnataka High Court took out the eviction order and relocated families in New Hampi.  

Three dynasties had contributed to building of this temple viz. Hoysala, Chalukya and Tuluva (Krushnadevaraya). The swayambhu (self-manifested) lingam dates back to Satyuga. As the story goes, when Shiva disappeared after marriage with Pampa devi (Parvati in her later form) he appeared here as a  lingam. The story further narrates that Sri Rama when staying here (during Chaturmas) worshiped this lingam. 

As we walked from bazaar towards the temple, one can't take his eyes off the one of the tallest Gopurams (165 ft, 11 storied) built by Krushnadevaraya. It is Raj Gopuram i.e. main gopuram or Eastern Gopuram.   

Walking towards the garbhagriha with Raj Gopuram behind our back, two other  smaller gopurams are seen located on inner East and inner North East side. In the compound  we came across three headed Nandi. One body three heads, possibly the only statue in India. The earlier place of Nandi was on Nandi Pitham located in front of the lingam. But like all other sculptures it was destroyed by invaders and was moved out from regular worship. 

 

As the deity is Swayambhu Lingam even today Trikal-Pooja (three times worship), Trikal-Abhishekam (Abhishekam-liquid offerings are poured over the deity) and Trikal-Naivedyam (Naivdedyam -Pasad or food offering) are followed during the day. Hence the three headed Nandi. 

The name Virupaksha (Virupa is angry look, Aksha is eye)  means Shiva's angry manifestation. Shiva burnt Kamadeva and his wife Rati for disturbing his meditation on Himkuta Paravat (mountain) after Sati's death (Parvati in her earlier Avatara), the detailed story is in my earlier blog.  Hence this is possibly the only temple where devotees enter from the side of the Garbhagriha rather than from the front facing Shiva. The lingam is decorated with flowers, silver mask and Gold mukutam (crown) which is used on major occasions such as Shivaratri or Virpaksha procession. The crown is 5.5 kgs of gold donated by Krishnadevaraya.  On Shiva's forehead instead of three stripes of Bhasma, sandal wood paste is applied to keep him cool. 

The temple compound has Dharmasala on the right and Nandipith (Original place of three headed Nandi), Flag post, Naivedyapith and lamp post on the way to garbhagriha. 

The main pillared sabhamandap, has a ceiling with murals painted more than 500 years ago. The colours used are still visible. This is the place where one can see painting of chaturmukha Brahma (Brahma with four faces), the paintings include, Girijakalyan (marriage of Shiva and Pampa(Parvati)), Draupadi Swayamvar, Procession of Vidyaranya, Tripurasura Samharam (with Shiva on chariot with Sun and Moon as Chariot's wheels, Earth as the floor, Panch maha bhuta as the horses), Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh (Shiva), Guardians of eight direction (Ashta Dikpal), Dashsavatar of Vishnu and so on. In fact today I felt sorry as I didn't have proper camera to capture the beauty of these paintings. 

The first row shows from left to right Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma and Kamdeva is seen on chariot with his feather bow and flower arrow in another picture, on the right are seen Dikpals.  These photos may not give clear idea of how beautiful they are. The sculptures on the side walls are also seen.

Last but not the least of the wonders is a natural pin hole camera which provides inverted image of the Raj gopuram inside the temple. If this is not natural and man made then one wonders about the knowledge of our ancestors (documented use of Pinhole camera is in sixteenth century). 

We took blessings from the Laxmi female temple elephant before leaving the temple. (One has to offer 10 rupee note to get the blessings!). 

Our next stop was Idagunji Maha or Kadalekalu Ganesha or Chana Ganapati. The name comes from the shape of the belly which looks like Chickpea (Chana) or Kadale in Kannada. The idol was carved from a single rock, monolithic. The temple was built around the idol after carving it from single stone. The Ganesha temple was built in 1428 by Praudhadevaraya from Sangama dynasty and the 24 pillar sabhamandapam or mahamandapam was built subsequently by Krishnadevaraya. Before visiting Virupaksaha temple royal family used to visit Idagunji Maha. 

Despite the defacement by the invaders one can see the beauty of the carving particularly in pash, ankush, lines on the palm, finger nails, and folds on Modak (the favourite food of Lord Ganesha). 24 pillars in the mahamandapam carry sculptures.

Then artists must have taken inspiration from the travelers who visited Hampi in those days. From the sculptures we can make out Mongolian, Egyptian and Chinese travelers.  

Next we visited Laxmi Narsimha and Badvi Linga as the statues are close by. 

The huge monolithic sculpture of Lakshmi Narasimha is one of the most outstanding works of sculptural art of Vijayanagara. This statue stands to a height of 6.70 m. consecrated by priest Krishna Bhatta at the behest of Krishnadevaraya in 1528 CE as per Lithic record. Narasimha, fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, is found seated in yogic posture with yogapatta on the giant coils of Adishesha, the sacred guardian snake of Vishnu. 

The figure of Narasimha is set within an architectural frame consisting of seated lions at the base, half pilasters with creeper motif, double Kirtimukha rising curved capitals and makaras on the sides, and a foliated frame topped with a Kirtimukha over the seven-hooded Naga on top. The four arms of the statue with their various attributes have been broken. The seated figure of his consort Lakshmi on his left lap is missing. The face too has been damaged which misled people into believing that it was the Ugra Narasimha (ferocious Narasimha). But the presence of the right hand of the goddess embracing the Lord at the back is the proof of it being that of Lakshmi Narasimha.

The Badavi Linga, a monolithic Shiva Linga in Hampi, Karnataka, stands at a height of approximately 3 meters (10 feet). It is known as the largest Shiva Linga in Hampi and is housed within a small stone chamber. The Linga is carved from black rock and has three eyes etched on its surface.

If you zoom in, third eye of Shiva is visible. Badava in Kannada means a person with a few or no possessions. Legend has it that this was commissioned by a peasant woman and hence the name by saving for the life time to build this lingam. It is believed to be built in 15th Century.  The sanctum in which the Linga is installed is always filled with water as a water channel is made to flow through it.

Our last adventure in Hampi during the day was coracle ride. Coracle is a round boat made up of wickerwork and coated from outside with water resistant material and propelled with paddle. It is a traditional way people used to ferry across the waters. It can accommodate 5-8 people at a time. Getting in to the 

boat is really tricky but with the help of oarsman we managed.

It was a unique experience as the boat goes round and round while moving forward. The oarsman gave us experience of merry-go-round by rotating to coracle around its axis .

The evening sun was spreading the glow on quite waters and we were the only people in the river. Ruins of ancient Hampi were all around us on the banks of the river Tungabhadra. The setting sun, evening glow on water, gently flowing waters and increasing shadows of the hillocks on the banks had serene, calming effect on all of us after a long day. 

The temples and the naturally balancing boulders on the bank with Virupaksha bazaar spreading across the bank was an amazing site. 

The sun set was the most befitting conclusion of the day. 

Tomorrow morning we will be leaving for Hubbali on our return journey to Mumbai. On our way back there are two more attractions. More about them in my next and last blog.