The Ancient Ruins: Hampi-Day-1

Music in Stones!

We were staying in a Home Stay near "New Hampi". New Hampi refers to a resettlement area, or a new town, built to accommodate people displaced from the ancient city of Hampi, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is also known as the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. Shri. Nagaraj, our guide for our Hampi tour arrived on time to take us on our trip to Hampi – Day -1.

As we boarded the bus our guide started his fluent commentary on the history of Vijayanagar. He was pointing out landmarks as we were passing them. On the way from our place of stay to Vitthal temple we passed by the Kamalapur Lake. Kamalapur Lake, is a man-made reservoir in Hampi. Kamalapur lake was highly significant part of the Vijayanagar Empire's water management system. The water was used for irrigation and potentially supplying (using earthen pipes) to the "Royal Centre". This was found from the records written by Italian traveler Niccolò de' Conti who visited Hampi in 1420 AD.

The landscape is typically hilly terrain characterised by granite boulders in all shapes and sizes, scattered all around. The granite bedrock has weathered and eroded over millions of years, along cracks and crevices, resulting in the distinctive boulder-strewn landscape. The granitic boulders are primarily igneous rocks. The landscape is also frequented by inselberg, meaning island mountain in German. These are isolated hills butting out on planes or otherwise levelled surfaces. They are formed due to erosion of the surrounding material. The varied shapes and formations are the Nature’s sculptures, hinting tourists about the manmade marvels awaiting them ahead.

Hampi was not the original name of the place. Pampa is the name of the river Tungbhadra and the place located on the Banks of the river Pampa was Pampapura, Pampakshetra meaning land of Pampa. Hampi is the anglicised version of Kannada Hampe (derived from Pampa).  The mythological story is very interesting. In Satyuga, Shiva’s wife Sati died and Shiva was unable to bare the grief and left Kailash, renounced the world and sat for meditation on Hemkuta Parvat (mountain). Demons and Asuras realised that Shiva was not around and started harassing Devas. All the gods went to Brahma and requested him to interfere. Brahma told them "destruction is job of Shiva you wake him from his deep penance, meditation and he will do the needful." No one was ready to disturb Shiva and attract his wrath. Kamadeva and Rati came forward and took the task. Together they perform kamkrida (erotic dance) to disturb Shiva. Angry Shiva opened his third eye and burnt Kamdeva on the spot. Hence, the temple of Virupaksha (Virup – angry and Aksha is eye or Netra), it is temple of angry Shiva hence the entrance to the temple for the devotees is from the side and not from the front, which is overseen by third eye of Shiva. More when we visit Virupaksha. 

Sati / Parvati now in the form of Pampa devi who was undergoing rigorous penance with devotion to win Shiva as her husband, on the other bank of Pampa. Parvati demonstrating unwavering dedication, ultimately won Shiva, he was pleased and agreed to marry Parvati or Pampa Devi. From then on, she is considered as consort of Virupaksha. 

A quick run through of Vijayanagar history. According to the narrative, Vijayanagar founder brothers Harihara (Hakka-I) and Bukka Ray (Bukka-I) belong to Kakatiya dynasty and served as Kampili Chiefs. After king of Warangal (Kakatiya) was defeated by Muhammad Bin Tughlaq and Kampili failed, his commanders Harihara (Hakka-I) and Bukka Ray (Bukka-I) were taken prisoners to Delhi. There, they were forced to convert to Islam. After some years both were sent back to Kampili as subordinates of Sultanate of Delhi. There they met Vidyaranya Jagatguru (World spiritual teacher) from Sringeri Sharada Peetham. He converted them back as Hindus and guided them to establish Vijayanagar in 1336. From 1336 to 1565 approx. 230 years, four dynasties ruled from Vijayanagar. The first being Sangama, followed by Suluva, Tuluva and Aravindu. Krushnadev Raya belong to Tuluva dynasty.  In 1565 Vijayanagar was defeated by coalition of Muslim Sultanate and Hampi, capital of Vijayanagar was plundered, looted, and destroyed. From then on Hampi was called as “City of Ruins” or the “Lost City.” Vijayanagar had 7 fortification walls and 24 gates. Most of them are destroyed but the fortifications are visible in parts when going around in the city.

Hampi is surrounded by hills, tallest amongst them is Matanga. Matanga is the hill where Shri. Ramchandra killed Vali and gave Sugriva his Kingdom and set free his wife Ruma. Hemakuta is known for its sunrise and sunset points and the group of temples, Anjanadri considered as a birth place of Hanumana. It is also known as Kishkindha. This was where Sugriva and Shri. Ramchandra met. Shabari cave near Pampa Lake was the place where Shri. Ramchandra met Shabari and she told him to meet Sugriva. Shri. Nagaraj finished his narration as we reached the entrance of Shree Vijaya Vitthal temple. 

As we were approaching the temple Gopuram, serving as a gateway between earthly and divine realms, on the right-hand side there was line of granite pillars on the granite plinth more than a meter tall and covered with similar slabs as a roof. They were akin to multiple stalls and indeed that was a market (Bazaar) place. Added multiple photos just to give idea of the spread of the market. The place was Vitthal Bazaar out of the seven bazaars in Hampi.

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This was Vitthal Bazaar famous for trading of horses (in true sense of the word) and Elephants. Horses were brought in from Arabia, Mongolia, Persia, and Europe to be sold here. Elephants were coming from Sri Lanka to be sold here. On the friezes below the plinth of Vitthal temple one can see traders checking horses. One counting teeth to know horse age, another measuring length of the tail to know of it can run faster (short tailed run faster) and yet another showing how long horse can jump. Followed by Elephants friezes.

On the lighter note, the word market may have originated from the Kannada word “Marukatte – maaru -to sell and katte – platform or place.” Though the recorded origin is from Latin word “Mercatus,” “Merx” meaning merchandise.  

At the other end of the approach road was Gopuram. Gopuram the hall mark of South Indian style of architecture. Many a time the entrance of the temple shrine is far more intricate and beautiful than the Garbhagriha. Closer inspection revealed that the base part of the structure was made up of stone and as we go up earthen bricks were used. The binding material then used as informed, consisted of lime mortar (lime, sand and water mixed), egg shell, jaggery molasses, Olivera jell and coconut water. Nagaraj educated us. An attempt was made to restore the gopuram from an old photograph by the authorities using similar materials.

The story behind Vitthal temple is very interesting. In 1435 when Vitthal temple in Pandharpur was threatened by Muslim invaders, (Ahmednagar Sultan) the Vitthal idol was removed by the priest from the shrine and taken to Vijayanagar for the safe keeping as that was the only Hindu empire, under Krushnadevaraya. The idol was taken back to Pandharpur around 1519 by Bhanudas. May be the reason, why Vitthal in Maharashtra got the name Kanada Vitthal due to this journey to Karnataka. 

After the Vitthal idol was removed, Krishnadev Raya placed idol of Tirupati Balaji (he was devotee of Tirupati). The one which was destroyed by the subsequent Muslim invasions.  The temple was built around the idols accompanied by later addition by the king and his queens of multiple mandapas such as Bhajan Mandapam, Kalyan Mandapam (Wedding Hall), Maha Mandapam (or Sabha Mandapam) also known as Sangeet Mandapam.

On the left of the entry from Gopuram one can see the Kitchen, Dormitories or Dharmshala for pilgrims visiting the Shrine, not seen in this picture.  Seen in the picture are Vitthal Temple, Maha Mandapam or Sangeet Mandapam and Garuda Rath, the chariot.

Krushnadevaraya had three wives Trunamula Devi, Chenna Devi and relatively less known Anpurna Devi. Chenna Devi was a classical dancer and had wish to offer her services to the temple. The Maha Mandapam or Sangeet Mandapam was created for the purpose.

It is an Architect’s marvel. There are 56 pillars which are monolith each having multiple columns of varied sizes, height, design and diameter. The number of columns in each pillar are different. In some pillars number of columns is as high as 16 and some it is just 7. Each column has apparently different metallic composition and hence resonated at different frequencies when hit by wooden sticks. In brief each pillar was able to create sound of different musical instruments and can be played to accompany queen while she is dancing.   This picture with multiple angles gives some idea of the intricacy, complexity and the beauty of the design. The architect not only knew work but also understood metallurgy, music and musical instruments. 

The authorities have now restricted access to the Sangeet Mandapam for the obvious reason that visitors may try their hands on these pillars, which may cause permanent damage to this marvel. Thanks to innovative thinking by Archaeological Survey of India, Hampi Circle, technology has helped on this front and tourists can get near real experience of the musical notes, which could be heard from respective pillars by scanning the QR codes provided near each pillar. Jagate is a round, metal percussion instrument used in Indian temples to announce the arrival of deities and in street processions. 

Kalyan Mandapam the marriage celebration hall is another mandapam, which you should not miss. This is equally interesting as the temple and the Sangeet Mandapam. It is an open pavilion with 32 pillars and the pillars are decorated by carvings from Ramayana.

Mythological creatures are carved on the length of the stone pillars. These creatures are combination of Elephant, Horse, Lion and Crocodile face with a trunk and man riding it. 

The creature is called as Yali. Yali is considered as protector, a symbol of power with all the virtues of the animals combined. The aspiring king should have all the attributes and capable of mounting the creature. 

On pillars, beautiful carvings are visible. From left corner in clock wise direction is Hanuman giving Chudamani (crest jewel) of Seeta to Shri Ramchandra. Next is depiction of the story behind the name “Hoysala.” The word Hoysala refers to the medieval dynasty that ruled in Deccan region is Southern India. The name Hoyasala came from the man named Sala or Poysala who defended his Jain Guru from attacking lion with a single strike (Hoy in Kannada) of his sword.  Below is Nrusimha killing Hiranyakashyapu, then is dancer and the last one is Kamadeva shooting a flower arrow with feather bow.

The Maha Mandapam is exactly aligned with the central axis of the temple courtyard and it is bang in front of the stone chariot.  Seen in the picture below is Garuda Rath or the Chariot. The picture of same Chariot is appearing on the reverse of  Indian currency note of ₹ 50. Hampi being a UNESCO Heritage Site.

This Chariot is symbol Krushnadev Raya’s victory over Odisha (Orisa) after 4 years of war. He defeated Gajapati Prataprudra. He was impressed by the Konrark Suryamandir and to celebrate his victory he created this, Garuda Rath. It is not from a single stone but 24 pieces of stone carved and assembled. The wheels apparently use to roll, which were not fixed. The Elephants in front of the chariot is later addition by Britishers when the horses earlier were destroyed by invaders. Traces of vegetable colours (some patches of green) is still visible on the chariot giving scope for tourists to imagine what it must be looking in its glorious days.

We walked from Vitthal Temple towards river bank. We came across multiple ruins of the old temples and pillars with beautiful carvings, again the bottom friezes are adorned with horses. 

On the left hand side while walking towards the river we came across King’s Balance (Tula). Tula was used by the King on auspicious days or festive occasion to weigh himself with gold, silver or precious stones and jewels to donate the same to needy citizens attending the festival or the function.

As you come in the clear on the right side a mandapa is visible with white washed top. This is known as Purandara Dasa mandapa. Purandara Dasa (c. 1470 – c. 1564), known as the "Pitamaha" (grandsire) of Karnatic music, was a renowned composer, singer, and Haridasa philosopher from Karnataka, India, who lived and attained samadhi in Hampi. 

His compositions and lyrics were so simple that even children could understand them. He wrote about Vitthal Bhakti (devotion). He is known as founder of Dasya Sahitya. He wrote more than 50000 poems, lyrics.

 

This was a long pre-lunch session and we decided to break for lunch and were looking for authentic Kannada lunch. As usual our capable guide directed us to Mango Tree Restaurant with simple ambiance with addition of Indian sitting along with usual sitting arrangements. We had sumptuous lunch and decided to continue our site seeing after spending some time in restaurant’s courtyard in tree shades in the hot afternoon.

We will continue in my next blog, post lunch on Day 1 in Hampi.